Monday, March 19, 2018

Heading Home

We have been driving through the mid west for several days and have visited the Eisenhower Library and Museum in Abilene, KS.
On to the Truman Library and Museum in Independence, Missouri, then to Mark Twain’s birthtown, Hannibal, Missouri.  All were fascinating and special visits, which I will need to write about at a much later date.
We are trying to be just a day ahead of very bad weather and my computer is concking out, so this will be the last entry probably until we arrive home.  I have loved reading the comments from all who have been following my blog.  I will fill in the blanks of our last few days of this magnificent journey.

It has been an unforgettable adventure.

Tuesday, March 13, 2018

March 6-13

Our time at Lake Chelan was magical.  It was relaxing as well as contemplative.  The wintery snow had fallen in the hillsides but the lake and the town remained clear of snow, providing a never ending peaceful view.

We took the ferry to Stehekin, a full day experience.  The town of Stehekin is located at the opposite end of the Lake, 50 miles north.  The ferry ride was about 2 and half hours and was a lovely reminder of the Casco Bay Lines.  The passengers carried their groceries and personal items and everyone  knew each other. It was an opportunity to watch as a tourist and yet feel a warm connection to this experience.   I might add that I am only talking about 15 people total.  The ferry made a stop at Lucerne, a retreat spot for Lutherans.  This community was once a copper mine that had gone under years ago.  The Lutheran church bought the property and is used now for retreats.  Once we arrived at Stehekin, we disembarked and walked up the dock to the one and only restaurant. We sat near the fire place and had an interesting conversation with the waiter.   There was significantly more snow here so we were not able to hike around the area.  The town consists of about 30 full time winter residents, some writers, artists and others who like living a very quiet life. The summer is very different here.  It is filled with hikers who spend time in the back country and the National Park that is just to the north of the town.  I feel very fortunate that we have arrived in winter so we could get the sense of this beautiful spot without the “summer people”.  

We left Chelan on March 9 and drove to Boise,Idaho. It was a long day driving but we were on a mission to get across the Rocky Mountains in clear weather which was 3 days out. The next day we were able to get to Provo, Utah, another long day of driving.   We had a break around noon our time with a FaceTime call to Joy and Clint.  They were having an LDI get together so we got to virtually attend and see our island friends enjoying sunny Florida. We made it to Grand Junction Colorado.  The past three days had been long drives through flat high desert lands. Fortunately there was no snow or rain. The roads were clear and dry.
The drive from Grand Junction to Denver was through the Rockies.  It was a 4 hour drive through the most beautiful part of Colorado.  We were very surprised at the lack of snow especially in the high elevation areas.  At one point we were at 11,000 feet with no snow except at higher peaks.  We stopped at Vail Ski Resort to take a short walk around the charming village of Vail. It was a reminder of our ski days and the fact that we are getting old and won’t be skiing anymore, maybe!

We are staying outside of Denver where we had dinner with the son of a friends of ours in Florida. He planned a lovely dinner at an Indian restaurant in town.  It was fun to see Scott and meet his charming wife, Sarah who will be expecting their first child next month.

Today we had lunch with the daughter of a friend with whom I had worked in Newburyport. Amantha now lives in Boulder and it was such a delight to spend time with her.  After lunch we walked around the town enjoying the sunshine and warm weather.  Boulder is a charming city host to the Univesity of Colorado.  It is a lively young persons city with charming tree lined streets and 19th century homes.  Pearl Street is a walk only shopping area where you can find book stores, coffee shops, clothing stores, upscale restaurants and of course,  THC shops.

Our drive will continue through Kansas and onto Missouri in the next few days.  We have no specific plans now but will be curious to observe the land and the people at the center of the US.





Monday, March 5, 2018

March 5

March 5 

Nothing in nature stays the same; transitions are constant.  Seasons change, mountains move, rivers run, and deserts bloom. There have been many adventures on our journey that have expanded our view of the environment and opened our minds to see and interpret large, small and negative spaces as one might observe a landscape painting. Natural environments mirror the human spirit.  However it is that we see ourselves, the silhouetted shapes  of mountains, rivers, deserts, and trees give meaning to the view. To be a silent observer of nature allows one to assign a meaning as one might interpret a Rorsharch image.  Mountains are tall and rugged seemingly unmovable but one jolt of a tectonic plate and everything changes.  Rivers provide nourishment for surrounding life forms, yet if man builds a dam, life is altered.  Desert areas where life struggles to exist, bloom and celebrate with exotic colorful flowers with one rainstorm.  Trees give life to the environment, tall, stately and expiring oxygen into the air, but if forests are denuded  wildlife struggles to exist. Animals that live in the wilderness are a source of beauty and balance to the environment but when their habitats are minimized the lives of the wolves, bears, cougars, bobcats and others have moved closer to extinction.  Sacred landscapes provide historical, religious and spiritual places, but once these places are no longer respected the bridge that connects the human spirit to its natural environment is lost.  

The human race is dependent upon its relationship with the natural environment and knowing our intimate connection to it gives us a reason to protect it.  

How will we as a nation preserve and respect our environment and sacred landscapes for future generations? 

What is the balance between preservation and economic development?  

Our journey across America started with a simple idea, to visit as many National Parks and Monuments as possible in six months. Living in a 22 foot RV was a chance to see this country in slow motion, to “be” somewhere while actively engaging in the landscapes. Subtle observations along the way have expanded my view of the environment, native people, immigrants, and locals who live in small American towns.  To have experienced the beauty, the quiet mysteries, the great spaces, dramatic colors, historical importance, and the majestic architecture of America’s natural wonders is to say we have shaken a tree branch only to have held one fallen leaf. Each transition of this journey has filled our lives with new adventures, opened our minds to new ideas, and moved our hearts to a greater love.  

We will be leaving Lake Chelan this weekend to start the journey home.  There will be more to see and do but with new eyes.  










Tuesday, February 27, 2018

LAKE CHELAN WASHINGTON

TRANSITION: TWO WEEKS AT LAKE CHELAN: 

This sixth month journey across America has been fueled by a sense of adventure, a curiosity about the history of our country, the beauty of natural landscapes,  and the time to enjoy each adventure as if in slow motion.

Lake Chelan is a 50 mile long lake that flows into the Columbia River at the eastern base of Cascade Mountains.  The lake is clear, fresh and deep, about 1400 feet at the deepest part.  It’s location provides water to the surrounding arid land that makes it possible to have acres of apple and pear orchards and vineyards.  The town of Chelan is located at the southern end of the lake and is mostly a summer resort town with a year round population of about 4,000. Winters here are vastly different from the winters in Maine.  The temperatures are mild in the mid 50’s during the day and cool to around freezing at night.  The surrounding Cascade mountains are snow capped and reflected in the lake on sunny days. 

Because we are here in February, we are able to appreciate the locals at coffee shops, browse in book stores, dine at nearby restaurants,  and visit the wineries without the summer crowds.  We have a two week stay at two different condos and are taking this time to retreat from our traveling to enjoy the beautiful stillness of the scenery and appreciate all that we have experienced on our travels so far. Two weeks at Lake Chelan marks a time for reflection and  a transition from going to someplace new to going home.  It is a time to remember sites and experiences that have brought us closer to nature and each other.  How do I hold on to the pleasant memory of each adventure and not feel sadness at its end? How has my view of the world changed because of this journey? What were opportunities for personal growth?  











Monday, February 26, 2018

Feb. 25-Feb26. Lake Chelan, Washington

Feb 25-26
Wintery weather continued with icy rain falling in the morning.  With bad weather continueing we made the decision to follow the Columbia River all the way to Lake Chelan in one day.  We were able to secure a condo with a Lake view until March 2.
 We followed the  Columbia River Gorge north passing through small towns and cities like Richland, Mattaway, Quincy, Wenatchee and finally Chelan.   Eastern Washington geography is arid and desert like.  However, in complete contrast to the desert areas of Utah or Arizona the Columbia River provides water to the thousands of farmlands in this desert like environment.  The Cascades to the west are snow capped and provide a stark contrast to the brown treeless hills below.  They also provide water run off into the Columbia River.  The farmlands are a well organized and perfectly pruned fields of  apple and pear orchards as well as vineyards all made possible through the magic of irrigation. Although the trees and vines are bare this time of the year, they have been pruned to perfection awaiting warmer weather to blossom.  There are about 175,000 acres of apple orchards in Washington State and  produces 6 out of every 10 apples consumed in the United States.  These desert orchards extend miles into every direction and I can only imagine how beautiful the transition to spring is when their pink and white blossoms are in full bloom.
   The choice to continue to Lake Chelan turned out to be a great decision.  Our dog friendly condo overlooks the 50 mile Lake Chelan.  The city of Chelan is definitely a summer resort town of about 4,000 people,  but to visit during the winter gives us the opportunity to enjoy the town and its small town quality without the summer tourists. The summer population can increase to 25,000 including tourists and residents.
   On a morning walk through town we spent time in a local coffee shop, a book store and shopped at the various gift shops on Main Street.  With all the wineries around, we made a plan to visit two, Benson the Lake Chelan Winery.  We were the only visitors to both wineries so they were very willing to offer more than the regular offerings.  Two visits were enough for one day!
We will be in Chelan until March 9 and plan to take advantage of all this lovely community has to offer including a day long trip on the Lady of the Lake.  The excursion will take us into the wilderness areas of the lake surrounded by peaks over 9,000 to the town of Stehekin accessible only by boat, plane or hiking.
   This part of our journey across America marks a transition.  After our time in Lake Chelan we will begin our travels home.
 


Feb 21-25 The Columbia River Gorge

Feb 21-25: The Columbia River Gorge

  Since we are clearly experience winter conditions, the idea of camping in an RV park is not on our agenda.  Although the winter weather is mild compared to Maine, the water system in the RV freezes up when it gets below 32 degrees. In addition, the state parks are closed for the season which means we would not be able to have water or take a shower.  We have dry camped a few times but where the weather was a bit warmer.  With that in mind, we are staying in hotels for a few weeks. The scenery in Washington is too beautiful to miss so a few hotels along the way are just fine.
   Following our stay at the Columbia River Gorge Hotel, we continued east as far as Pendleton, Oregon where we visited the Pendleton Woolen factory where Mark bought a couple of shirts. Pendleton is a small city with a population of about 16,000 and the median home value is about $150,000.  We found a small sandwich place and talked to a few locals.  It turns out that Pendleton has a very interesting history.  In 1883 the transcontinental railroad linked Portland to the East Coast so by the late 1800’s the Chinese workers who helped build these railroads were now competing for jobs and depressing wages.  The Chinese workers who lived in Pendleton were not allowed to live above ground, prohibited from becoming citizens or owning land.  Because the Chinese lived below ground , they had built an entire city with opium dens, brothels, apothecaries, butcher shop, bars, and laundries.  These underground areas were connected by a series of tunnels with secret entrances and passage ways.  The Chinese were victims of crimes especially by Cowboys who would venture into the city after their time on the range. Due to the “exclusion laws” it was possible to commit all sorts of crimes against the Chinese including murder  without fear of punishment. This is a chapter of history that is often neglected.  The “coolie” wages that were paid to the Chinese workers who came to the United States along with their horrific discrimination is often skimmed over in history books.  Visiting the Pendleton Underground brought life to this neglected period of American history.
    We decided to stay in Pendleton for the night as the tour ended late in the afternoon and the weather continued to be wintery.

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Feb 19-20 Olympia To Hood River Washington

Feb 19-20
Olympia to Hood River,  Washington
   A bit of bad weather arrived with freezing temperatures and light snow.  We opted to spend two nights in Olympia, the capital of Washington.  The city sidewalks were dusted with about 2 inches of snow but schools were closed for the day.  This would be a warm springtime snow storm in Maine.  The temperatures were in the mid thirties with spring flowers in bloom.  We actually had coffee in the morning at an outside seating with large soft snowflakes falling.
   Olympia is located at the south end of an inlet section of the Puget Sound.  It has a waterfront area with a farmers market, waterfront restaurants, and fishing boats.  The Farmers Market was only open on Saturdays this time of the year, so we were not able to experience that.  I remember visiting the Saturday Farmers Market in Eugene when Kate was in college.  It seemed to consume the entire town with fresh foods and handmade items.
   We have reservations at Lake Chelan on March 2 so we are trying to plan our trip across the Cascades without getting trapped on icy mountain roads or a snow storm.  On the advice of locals, we  decided to take the Columbia River Gorge Route 84 across the Cascades.  We needed to backtrack south just north of Portland, Oregon then east on to Route 84.  More snow was falling but we managed to drive to Hood River.  We found a lovely 1920 hotel and spa overlooking the Hood River, The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa.  This is an ornate hotel with classic brass and glass chandeliers, an Otis 1920 elevator that needed an operator to take us to our room, and a glass enclosed dining room overlooking the Hood river.  There are seven acres of landscaped gardens that surround the property that provide walking trails to waterfalls, a beautiful dog friendly spot.  Even though there is snow on the ground the rhododendrons are blossoming, the daffodils are budding and the English Ivy covers stone walls along the pathways.  Since there are only 6 guests in the hotel, we have been treated like royalty.  We plan to stay here for two nights as we watch the weather forecast and road conditions.