Thursday, November 30, 2017

Desert Landscape: A few notes

     From the time we left Dallas and just outside of Fort Worth, Texas the landscape flattens out and the roads become long and straight.  The western desert land is miles of open space, flat land, and big sky.  The colors are simple, beige with hints of dark green scrub and cactus plants.  I am not sure how far one can actually see but it feels like if I stood on my tip toes, I could see the curvature of the earth.  
The cactus plants are spiny and short, I need to research the names of some of them.  Jack found out how sharp the thorns can be when he decided to take a pee up close to one of them.

     We saw deer one evening around dusk just outside of Fort Davis. We were told about a clearing of Cottonwood trees where the deer and sometimes elk would wander around in the open space just before sunset.  We did not see elk but a herd of deer made their way into the clearing.  We got a beautiful look at these white tail deer.
 
   On a few occasions we spotted Road-Runners on the side of the road, some alive, some not.  They are actually very cute with their waddle.  It was sad to  see a few coyotes that had been hit by cars.

     The desert truly is its own beauty and part of the beauty, for me, is the silence.  The quietness at night is remarkable. I feel very small in the vastness of space that is all around.  Tonight the sky is dark with a few clouds so the stars are not all that visible but when we do see the entire night sky is sparkling with crystals.

     One of the sights we did not encounter was the so called Marfa Lights.  Evidently, at some times of the year and certain geological conditions the sky around Marfa gives off a light show.  It is similar to the northern lights, they say.  Some even say it is people from outer space.
   
     On our drive from Texas to New Mexico, the natural landscape does not change much but it is evident how humans are impacting it.  The land is now exploding with fracking companies.  Huge oil rigs, water pipes and containment facilities are everywhere.  Trucks in and out of the sites were busy carrying whatever they are transporting from one location to another.  Small motor home facilities were popping up to house the workers.  These trailer camps seem to be a modern day version of the coal patch towns of the early 20th century.  On a personal note, there is so much wind and sun here, I don’t understand why there aren’t giant wind or solar farms.  The energy these companies are using to find gas and oil is unbelievable, especially considering the lack of water here.

     The desert space is wide open, simple and flat, ginger colored grassses with dark green cactus dot the land.  The desert sky is deep blue with whispy clouds in daylight. The night sky is black with millions of glistening stars.  I would venture to guess that we are not alone in this vast universe.

Carlsbad, New Mexico

Wednesday November 29 & 30, 2017

Carlsbad, New Mexico
Saying good-bye to Libby and John was a bitersweet fairwell.  We had a wonderful time with them in Dallas and our travels through the western part of the state in Alpine, Marfa, and Fort Davis.  We will miss Libby’s expertise on art and literature, and John’s quips and insights into all things Texas.

Mark and I did have one interesting experience with a couple of “real” Texans.  We needed to visit the laundromat in Fort Davis.  We aren’t carrying many changes of clothing so we get to see several laundromats along the way.  It is actually a great way to talk to the locals and hear their stories.  In Fort Davis the laundromat is a small white stucco building with 10 washing machines and 10 dryers.  There was only one other couple in there when we arrived and they had been using about 5 of the machines.  We didn’t mind because we only neede one.
“Where are y’all from?” The man dressed in Texas style shirt, blue jeans, and a hand carved leather belt with a Texas hat, asked.
“Maine.”
“I met someone from Vermont once.  I think it’s near there, right.”
“Yes, it is”
“Is this your first time in west Texas?”
“It is”
“Well, let me tell you about west Texas.  I grew up on a farm south of here, right on the Mexican border.  My family had been there for years.  We raised corn, cotton, carrots, and all kinds of other vegetables.  But I got old and tired so I retired up here a bit farther north.  Too many Mexicans coming across the border, about 11 million a day, I’d say.  Those wet-backs bring nothing good to the United States.  They come with their babies and drugs.  They just want a free ride here.  That wall should have been built a long time ago.  Nothing but bad comes from the other side of the border.”

The man’s wife interrupts him: “Those that come here bring babies, born out of wedlock.  God is watching them and there will be hell to pay.  He is watching, you know. That wall needs to built fast. That other president just let them all come in to this country and gave them citizenship.”

Fortunately, Jack was with us and he needed to pee.  Quick excuse to take the dog for a walk.

“So nice to meet you both.” We left the laundromat.

Mark and I provisioned the RV for our 2 hour drive to Carlsbad New Mexico and Brantley Lake State Park.  The landscape was flat and very desolate but not in like the rest of trip through Texas.  The desert has it’s own beauty.  We were very much alone at the camp site with high winds blowing all night.  I got a text from Mike letting us know that we are now in UFO country.  Awesome! The darkness and the complete silence of the landscape is actually quite inspirational.

Mark was excited to visit the Carlsbad Caves.  After Mammoth, I was not interested at all.  He took a two hour tour while Jack and I  and spent time outside the cave.  I had a great conversation with my good friend Agnes.  We had pretty good reception, so we were able to catch up on family events.




Fort Davis, TX

November 27, 28, 2017

Fort Davis is a classic western Texas town with friendly people, the grocery store doubling as a sandwich shop and the drug store with its perfect 1950 soda fountain area with music to match.  The one Main Street in town was about 3 blocks long with no traffic.

The Limpia Hotel was our home for two days.  We shared a condo-like 2 bedroom suite with kitchen, dining room, and 2 baths.  Our bathroom had the old fashioned claw footed bath tub, meant for smaller folks back in the day.  In the morning we went to the drug store for breakfast.  It was Texas style: two eggs, 3 pancakes, hash browns, and bacon or saugage.  Mighty good!!

The town is named for the Fort that is located just outside of the town. Fort Davis is a United States National Historic Site. It was established in 1961 to protect one of the best remaining examples of United States Army Fort in the southwestern U.S.

The Fort was originally established in 1854 and has been slowly renovated with some of the buildings staged to show what life was like at the fort in the mid to late 1800’s.  The fort was designed “to protect emigrants, mail coaches and freight wagons on the trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahua Trail, and to control activities on the southern stem of the Great Comanche War Trail.”

One important historical aspect of the fort was the activity of African Americans in the West and in the military. The 24th and 25th US Infantry regiments and the 9th and 10th Cavalry regiments, were all-black regiments known as the buffalo soldiers. Henry Ossian Flipper was an American soldier and former slave.  He was the first African American to graduate from the United States Military Academy at West Point in 1877. He was the first nonwhite officer to lead buffalo soldiers of the 10th Cavalry.  He was met with constant racial injustices and was court martialed and dismissed from the US Army.  In 1994 his descendants demanded a review of his court martial and he, posthumously was  pardoned by President Bill Clinton in 1999.

Day 2
Libby had arranged a full day of activities at the McDonald Observatory about 30 minutes from Fort Davis.  She scheduled a 2 hour tour in the morning then a twilight lecture in the early evening followed by a Star Party at night.  What an incredible day!

The Observatory is part of the University of Texas at Austin, housing two incredible telescopes. The Harlan Smith Telescope is a 107” and the Hobby-Eberly Telescope, 360”.  Two magnificent pieces of equipment meant to observe the stars, and planets.  The Hobby-Eberly Telescope is designed specifically for spectroscopy, the separation of light into its various colors which is used to decode distant galaxies, exploding stars, black holes and uncovering the mystery of dark energy.

Astronomical Science is clearly way beyond my comprehension, however, just to see the magnificent structures was awe inspiring.  Astronomers from all over the world schedule time here at the observatory to collect data and search the night skies.

When we returned for the evening events, the wind had picked up dramatically and the skies were just a bit cloudy but the Star Party was still fabulous.  We walked around the observatory and got to look through four telescopes that had been set for us on specific sightings.  The moon was the most dramatic.  It appeared as a Waxing Gibbous form with the crater, Copernicus, clearly visible.  Another telescope showed twin stars, one blue and one yellow.  I can’t remember what they were called but the color was intense.  Although the weather was windy and cold at 4,000 ft, the experience of being at the top of the mountain and seeing what the naked eye could never see was amazing.



Marfa, TX

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Marfa, Texas is the town of Donald Judd.  He was an American artist know for his minimalist style.  His work is adequately displayed at the Chinati Foundation here in town.  One expression of his works is a collection of large cement open ended squares purposefully placed to offer symmetry with each other and the shadows they create.  To me, his work is the ultimate example of form no function. There was a simplistic beauty in his work as it was displayed in the field outside of the Foundation’s building.  As the sun moves across the sculptures, geometric shadows form for short periods of time changing the optics of the sculptures. Other buildings there housed his metal works which were equally minimal in their design and structure.

Due to the art of Donald Judd, Marfa, located in west Texas, is now known as an artists hub.  Many people from New York, who are interested in this style of art visit here.  The art actually fits the landscape in his simplistic style and lack of color.  Squares and solid shapes define the structures matching the flat land with its beige grasses and spiny cactus.

The Hotel St. George is an elegant one located on the Main Street.  The style of the hotel reflects the art interests of the people who visit, minimalistic design.  It had a New York art attitude about it.

We took a drive to see the Prada Store located outside of Valentine.  The store is a statement of “you build it; they will come”.  It is an art display of shoes in a store window.  People come from all over to take photos.  Commercialism at its best!

The Cochineal Restaurant was a delightful place for dinner.  It served small plates with wonderful desserts.  (Cochineal is a small insect used for dying fabrics red)

It is such a pleasure traveling with Libby and John.  Libby is a fountain of knowledge and John is full of fun with hysterical comments along the way.

Marfa is also know for the Marfa lights which we did not see due to overcast.

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Alpine, Texas

Saturday, November 25
Texas is a giant of a state.  The 7 hour drive from Dallas to Alpine was long and flat.  We filled up with gas prior to driving because we weren’t sure how many gas stations were possible along the way.  Towns were few and far between.
We started driving at 6:00am and arrived in Alpine around 2:30.  John and Libby arrived about an hour ahead of us.  John is a a fast driver!

The scrub plants dotted the landscape for as far as the eye could see.  Mesquite, cottonwoods, tumble weed, cactus and various grasses were all one could see. It was a continuous sea of beige grasses with dots of dark green bushes.  Far off in the distance was a mountain range, Chinati Range. The mountains were brown rock formations lining the horizon.

We had dinner at Reata’s.  This was a classic west Texas restaurant, recommended by Bob Mittle, a law partner of Michael Asen’s who evidently lives nearby  part time.

Alpine is a small town.  There is a stark beauty here with a life style that is hard to imagine.   It is set apart from other towns by about 50 to 80 miles.  Homes are small, white or beige matching the landscape.




Dallas, Texas

Tuesday, November 21
The four hour drive to Dallas was uneventful.  Some traffic around Waco due to road construction but otherwise it was fine.  We arrived at the Zerner’s around 2:00pm.  It was really fun to connect with them.  It is such a pleasure to have friends willing to put us up for a few days then travel with us to the far west of Texas.

 Their home is absolutely lovely filled with Libby style eclectic art.    We had our own suite on the second floor.  It felt like a resort compared to the RV space we had been in for the past 20 days.

John had organized a delicious Texas style rib dinner, including roasted cauliflower, kale and avocado salad, and wine! It was perfect.

Wednesday, November 22
The Zerner’s were gracious enough to drive us all around Dallas.  What a beautiful city!  The neighborhood streets  are lined with mature live oaks creating cool canopies over the roads and sidewalks. The homes were beginning to decorate for the Christmas holidays so the spirit of the season was clearly evident.
We planned to have Thanksgiving dinner at Jay and Meridan’s home.  Libby was assigned 2 side dishes, roasted Cajun spiced carrots over lentils and sautéed asparagus with harissa sauce, both delicious.

Thursday, November 23
Following a light breakfast, Libby finished preparing the side dishes then we drove to Jay’s house.  It was a lovely time with the Zerner family.  Lang and his mom along with his mom’s brother and wife and their son were there. A long time friend of Jay’s was also there.  Dinner was a classic Thanksgiving meal with a Texas flair.  Turkey, ham with side dishes of sweet potatoes with marshmallows, corn bread stuffing, green beans, rolls, and the two sides from Libby.  Jordan read a delightful Thanksgiving poem to remind us all why we were celebrating.  Following the meal, we collapsed in front of the TV for the Dallas Cowboys game, which they lost.  We went back to the John and Libby’s for an early night.

Friday, November 24
This was another touring day of Dallas.  We visited the downtown area where President Kenndy was assassinated.  It was more moving than I had expected.  There is a big green X in the middle of the road where he was hit.  President Kennedy was killed when I was a Junior in high school in Bethesda, Maryland.  I remember going to the funeral procession in downtown Washington.  The streets were lined with people weeping as the horseless carriage passed by.  In Dallas, the window where Oswald shot the fatal blow is marked with a white box on the sixth floor of the Book Depository Building.  It was surprising to see how close Oswald was.

Central Market was wonderful.  It is a food market near the Zerner’s that is filled with every type of food imaginable.  We strolled through the market sampling just about everything.  Really fun!

We needed to retire early because we were all heading  to West Texas at 6:00am.

Dallas was grand and our hosts were the grandest of them all.  What a treat to see this beautiful city through the eyes of local residents.  Our time in Dallas was special not only to see the city but to spend time with good friends.  Thank you Libby and John!  Now off to Marfa.



Monday, November 20, 2017

Austin, TX page 2

Monday: November 20

We spent the day strolling around Lady Bird Lake with Jack.  The pathway was busy with bikers, runners, walkers and dog walkers.  The river was colorful with people in red, blue, yellow and green canoes and kayaks rowing under the bridges of the city.  We found a lush dog park for Jack.  He had a great time playing with a lovely silver colored Australian Labadoodle.  I think he remembers his friends, Annie and Larry.

The river park that runs through the city is a quiet well maintained area for locals.  It is a large green space in the middle of the city.  The Lady Bird Lake is a reservoir that used to be called Town Lake but was renamed in Lady Bird’s honor a few years back.  The tall modern buildings of Austin create a magnificent background to the park.

The people of Austin are very friendly.  Anytime we needed information people were willing to help and gave great detail on places to eat or how to get somewhere. We had BBQ for lunch at Black’s BBQ. This was the first BBQ in Texas and it did not dissappoint.

We need to spend some time reorganizing the RV and cleaning it up a bit tonight because we will be spending the next few days in Dallas and then off to Marfa, TX with the Zerner’s.

A relaxing day in all but well worth the walk in the river park.  It was beautiful.