We have been driving through the mid west for several days and have visited the Eisenhower Library and Museum in Abilene, KS.
On to the Truman Library and Museum in Independence, Missouri, then to Mark Twain’s birthtown, Hannibal, Missouri. All were fascinating and special visits, which I will need to write about at a much later date.
We are trying to be just a day ahead of very bad weather and my computer is concking out, so this will be the last entry probably until we arrive home. I have loved reading the comments from all who have been following my blog. I will fill in the blanks of our last few days of this magnificent journey.
It has been an unforgettable adventure.
Monday, March 19, 2018
Tuesday, March 13, 2018
March 6-13
Our time at Lake Chelan was magical. It was relaxing as well as contemplative. The wintery snow had fallen in the hillsides but the lake and the town remained clear of snow, providing a never ending peaceful view.
We took the ferry to Stehekin, a full day experience. The town of Stehekin is located at the opposite end of the Lake, 50 miles north. The ferry ride was about 2 and half hours and was a lovely reminder of the Casco Bay Lines. The passengers carried their groceries and personal items and everyone knew each other. It was an opportunity to watch as a tourist and yet feel a warm connection to this experience. I might add that I am only talking about 15 people total. The ferry made a stop at Lucerne, a retreat spot for Lutherans. This community was once a copper mine that had gone under years ago. The Lutheran church bought the property and is used now for retreats. Once we arrived at Stehekin, we disembarked and walked up the dock to the one and only restaurant. We sat near the fire place and had an interesting conversation with the waiter. There was significantly more snow here so we were not able to hike around the area. The town consists of about 30 full time winter residents, some writers, artists and others who like living a very quiet life. The summer is very different here. It is filled with hikers who spend time in the back country and the National Park that is just to the north of the town. I feel very fortunate that we have arrived in winter so we could get the sense of this beautiful spot without the “summer people”.
We left Chelan on March 9 and drove to Boise,Idaho. It was a long day driving but we were on a mission to get across the Rocky Mountains in clear weather which was 3 days out. The next day we were able to get to Provo, Utah, another long day of driving. We had a break around noon our time with a FaceTime call to Joy and Clint. They were having an LDI get together so we got to virtually attend and see our island friends enjoying sunny Florida. We made it to Grand Junction Colorado. The past three days had been long drives through flat high desert lands. Fortunately there was no snow or rain. The roads were clear and dry.
The drive from Grand Junction to Denver was through the Rockies. It was a 4 hour drive through the most beautiful part of Colorado. We were very surprised at the lack of snow especially in the high elevation areas. At one point we were at 11,000 feet with no snow except at higher peaks. We stopped at Vail Ski Resort to take a short walk around the charming village of Vail. It was a reminder of our ski days and the fact that we are getting old and won’t be skiing anymore, maybe!
We are staying outside of Denver where we had dinner with the son of a friends of ours in Florida. He planned a lovely dinner at an Indian restaurant in town. It was fun to see Scott and meet his charming wife, Sarah who will be expecting their first child next month.
Today we had lunch with the daughter of a friend with whom I had worked in Newburyport. Amantha now lives in Boulder and it was such a delight to spend time with her. After lunch we walked around the town enjoying the sunshine and warm weather. Boulder is a charming city host to the Univesity of Colorado. It is a lively young persons city with charming tree lined streets and 19th century homes. Pearl Street is a walk only shopping area where you can find book stores, coffee shops, clothing stores, upscale restaurants and of course, THC shops.
Our drive will continue through Kansas and onto Missouri in the next few days. We have no specific plans now but will be curious to observe the land and the people at the center of the US.
We took the ferry to Stehekin, a full day experience. The town of Stehekin is located at the opposite end of the Lake, 50 miles north. The ferry ride was about 2 and half hours and was a lovely reminder of the Casco Bay Lines. The passengers carried their groceries and personal items and everyone knew each other. It was an opportunity to watch as a tourist and yet feel a warm connection to this experience. I might add that I am only talking about 15 people total. The ferry made a stop at Lucerne, a retreat spot for Lutherans. This community was once a copper mine that had gone under years ago. The Lutheran church bought the property and is used now for retreats. Once we arrived at Stehekin, we disembarked and walked up the dock to the one and only restaurant. We sat near the fire place and had an interesting conversation with the waiter. There was significantly more snow here so we were not able to hike around the area. The town consists of about 30 full time winter residents, some writers, artists and others who like living a very quiet life. The summer is very different here. It is filled with hikers who spend time in the back country and the National Park that is just to the north of the town. I feel very fortunate that we have arrived in winter so we could get the sense of this beautiful spot without the “summer people”.
We left Chelan on March 9 and drove to Boise,Idaho. It was a long day driving but we were on a mission to get across the Rocky Mountains in clear weather which was 3 days out. The next day we were able to get to Provo, Utah, another long day of driving. We had a break around noon our time with a FaceTime call to Joy and Clint. They were having an LDI get together so we got to virtually attend and see our island friends enjoying sunny Florida. We made it to Grand Junction Colorado. The past three days had been long drives through flat high desert lands. Fortunately there was no snow or rain. The roads were clear and dry.
The drive from Grand Junction to Denver was through the Rockies. It was a 4 hour drive through the most beautiful part of Colorado. We were very surprised at the lack of snow especially in the high elevation areas. At one point we were at 11,000 feet with no snow except at higher peaks. We stopped at Vail Ski Resort to take a short walk around the charming village of Vail. It was a reminder of our ski days and the fact that we are getting old and won’t be skiing anymore, maybe!
We are staying outside of Denver where we had dinner with the son of a friends of ours in Florida. He planned a lovely dinner at an Indian restaurant in town. It was fun to see Scott and meet his charming wife, Sarah who will be expecting their first child next month.
Today we had lunch with the daughter of a friend with whom I had worked in Newburyport. Amantha now lives in Boulder and it was such a delight to spend time with her. After lunch we walked around the town enjoying the sunshine and warm weather. Boulder is a charming city host to the Univesity of Colorado. It is a lively young persons city with charming tree lined streets and 19th century homes. Pearl Street is a walk only shopping area where you can find book stores, coffee shops, clothing stores, upscale restaurants and of course, THC shops.
Our drive will continue through Kansas and onto Missouri in the next few days. We have no specific plans now but will be curious to observe the land and the people at the center of the US.
Monday, March 5, 2018
March 5
March 5
Nothing in nature stays the same; transitions are constant. Seasons change, mountains move, rivers run, and deserts bloom. There have been many adventures on our journey that have expanded our view of the environment and opened our minds to see and interpret large, small and negative spaces as one might observe a landscape painting. Natural environments mirror the human spirit. However it is that we see ourselves, the silhouetted shapes of mountains, rivers, deserts, and trees give meaning to the view. To be a silent observer of nature allows one to assign a meaning as one might interpret a Rorsharch image. Mountains are tall and rugged seemingly unmovable but one jolt of a tectonic plate and everything changes. Rivers provide nourishment for surrounding life forms, yet if man builds a dam, life is altered. Desert areas where life struggles to exist, bloom and celebrate with exotic colorful flowers with one rainstorm. Trees give life to the environment, tall, stately and expiring oxygen into the air, but if forests are denuded wildlife struggles to exist. Animals that live in the wilderness are a source of beauty and balance to the environment but when their habitats are minimized the lives of the wolves, bears, cougars, bobcats and others have moved closer to extinction. Sacred landscapes provide historical, religious and spiritual places, but once these places are no longer respected the bridge that connects the human spirit to its natural environment is lost.
The human race is dependent upon its relationship with the natural environment and knowing our intimate connection to it gives us a reason to protect it.
How will we as a nation preserve and respect our environment and sacred landscapes for future generations?
What is the balance between preservation and economic development?
Our journey across America started with a simple idea, to visit as many National Parks and Monuments as possible in six months. Living in a 22 foot RV was a chance to see this country in slow motion, to “be” somewhere while actively engaging in the landscapes. Subtle observations along the way have expanded my view of the environment, native people, immigrants, and locals who live in small American towns. To have experienced the beauty, the quiet mysteries, the great spaces, dramatic colors, historical importance, and the majestic architecture of America’s natural wonders is to say we have shaken a tree branch only to have held one fallen leaf. Each transition of this journey has filled our lives with new adventures, opened our minds to new ideas, and moved our hearts to a greater love.
We will be leaving Lake Chelan this weekend to start the journey home. There will be more to see and do but with new eyes.
Tuesday, February 27, 2018
LAKE CHELAN WASHINGTON
TRANSITION: TWO WEEKS AT LAKE CHELAN:
This sixth month journey across America has been fueled by a sense of adventure, a curiosity about the history of our country, the beauty of natural landscapes, and the time to enjoy each adventure as if in slow motion.
Lake Chelan is a 50 mile long lake that flows into the Columbia River at the eastern base of Cascade Mountains. The lake is clear, fresh and deep, about 1400 feet at the deepest part. It’s location provides water to the surrounding arid land that makes it possible to have acres of apple and pear orchards and vineyards. The town of Chelan is located at the southern end of the lake and is mostly a summer resort town with a year round population of about 4,000. Winters here are vastly different from the winters in Maine. The temperatures are mild in the mid 50’s during the day and cool to around freezing at night. The surrounding Cascade mountains are snow capped and reflected in the lake on sunny days.
Because we are here in February, we are able to appreciate the locals at coffee shops, browse in book stores, dine at nearby restaurants, and visit the wineries without the summer crowds. We have a two week stay at two different condos and are taking this time to retreat from our traveling to enjoy the beautiful stillness of the scenery and appreciate all that we have experienced on our travels so far. Two weeks at Lake Chelan marks a time for reflection and a transition from going to someplace new to going home. It is a time to remember sites and experiences that have brought us closer to nature and each other. How do I hold on to the pleasant memory of each adventure and not feel sadness at its end? How has my view of the world changed because of this journey? What were opportunities for personal growth?
Monday, February 26, 2018
Feb. 25-Feb26. Lake Chelan, Washington
Feb 25-26
Wintery weather continued with icy rain falling in the morning. With bad weather continueing we made the decision to follow the Columbia River all the way to Lake Chelan in one day. We were able to secure a condo with a Lake view until March 2.
We followed the Columbia River Gorge north passing through small towns and cities like Richland, Mattaway, Quincy, Wenatchee and finally Chelan. Eastern Washington geography is arid and desert like. However, in complete contrast to the desert areas of Utah or Arizona the Columbia River provides water to the thousands of farmlands in this desert like environment. The Cascades to the west are snow capped and provide a stark contrast to the brown treeless hills below. They also provide water run off into the Columbia River. The farmlands are a well organized and perfectly pruned fields of apple and pear orchards as well as vineyards all made possible through the magic of irrigation. Although the trees and vines are bare this time of the year, they have been pruned to perfection awaiting warmer weather to blossom. There are about 175,000 acres of apple orchards in Washington State and produces 6 out of every 10 apples consumed in the United States. These desert orchards extend miles into every direction and I can only imagine how beautiful the transition to spring is when their pink and white blossoms are in full bloom.
The choice to continue to Lake Chelan turned out to be a great decision. Our dog friendly condo overlooks the 50 mile Lake Chelan. The city of Chelan is definitely a summer resort town of about 4,000 people, but to visit during the winter gives us the opportunity to enjoy the town and its small town quality without the summer tourists. The summer population can increase to 25,000 including tourists and residents.
On a morning walk through town we spent time in a local coffee shop, a book store and shopped at the various gift shops on Main Street. With all the wineries around, we made a plan to visit two, Benson the Lake Chelan Winery. We were the only visitors to both wineries so they were very willing to offer more than the regular offerings. Two visits were enough for one day!
We will be in Chelan until March 9 and plan to take advantage of all this lovely community has to offer including a day long trip on the Lady of the Lake. The excursion will take us into the wilderness areas of the lake surrounded by peaks over 9,000 to the town of Stehekin accessible only by boat, plane or hiking.
This part of our journey across America marks a transition. After our time in Lake Chelan we will begin our travels home.
Wintery weather continued with icy rain falling in the morning. With bad weather continueing we made the decision to follow the Columbia River all the way to Lake Chelan in one day. We were able to secure a condo with a Lake view until March 2.
We followed the Columbia River Gorge north passing through small towns and cities like Richland, Mattaway, Quincy, Wenatchee and finally Chelan. Eastern Washington geography is arid and desert like. However, in complete contrast to the desert areas of Utah or Arizona the Columbia River provides water to the thousands of farmlands in this desert like environment. The Cascades to the west are snow capped and provide a stark contrast to the brown treeless hills below. They also provide water run off into the Columbia River. The farmlands are a well organized and perfectly pruned fields of apple and pear orchards as well as vineyards all made possible through the magic of irrigation. Although the trees and vines are bare this time of the year, they have been pruned to perfection awaiting warmer weather to blossom. There are about 175,000 acres of apple orchards in Washington State and produces 6 out of every 10 apples consumed in the United States. These desert orchards extend miles into every direction and I can only imagine how beautiful the transition to spring is when their pink and white blossoms are in full bloom.
The choice to continue to Lake Chelan turned out to be a great decision. Our dog friendly condo overlooks the 50 mile Lake Chelan. The city of Chelan is definitely a summer resort town of about 4,000 people, but to visit during the winter gives us the opportunity to enjoy the town and its small town quality without the summer tourists. The summer population can increase to 25,000 including tourists and residents.
On a morning walk through town we spent time in a local coffee shop, a book store and shopped at the various gift shops on Main Street. With all the wineries around, we made a plan to visit two, Benson the Lake Chelan Winery. We were the only visitors to both wineries so they were very willing to offer more than the regular offerings. Two visits were enough for one day!
We will be in Chelan until March 9 and plan to take advantage of all this lovely community has to offer including a day long trip on the Lady of the Lake. The excursion will take us into the wilderness areas of the lake surrounded by peaks over 9,000 to the town of Stehekin accessible only by boat, plane or hiking.
This part of our journey across America marks a transition. After our time in Lake Chelan we will begin our travels home.
Feb 21-25 The Columbia River Gorge
Feb 21-25: The Columbia River Gorge
Since we are clearly experience winter conditions, the idea of camping in an RV park is not on our agenda. Although the winter weather is mild compared to Maine, the water system in the RV freezes up when it gets below 32 degrees. In addition, the state parks are closed for the season which means we would not be able to have water or take a shower. We have dry camped a few times but where the weather was a bit warmer. With that in mind, we are staying in hotels for a few weeks. The scenery in Washington is too beautiful to miss so a few hotels along the way are just fine.
Following our stay at the Columbia River Gorge Hotel, we continued east as far as Pendleton, Oregon where we visited the Pendleton Woolen factory where Mark bought a couple of shirts. Pendleton is a small city with a population of about 16,000 and the median home value is about $150,000. We found a small sandwich place and talked to a few locals. It turns out that Pendleton has a very interesting history. In 1883 the transcontinental railroad linked Portland to the East Coast so by the late 1800’s the Chinese workers who helped build these railroads were now competing for jobs and depressing wages. The Chinese workers who lived in Pendleton were not allowed to live above ground, prohibited from becoming citizens or owning land. Because the Chinese lived below ground , they had built an entire city with opium dens, brothels, apothecaries, butcher shop, bars, and laundries. These underground areas were connected by a series of tunnels with secret entrances and passage ways. The Chinese were victims of crimes especially by Cowboys who would venture into the city after their time on the range. Due to the “exclusion laws” it was possible to commit all sorts of crimes against the Chinese including murder without fear of punishment. This is a chapter of history that is often neglected. The “coolie” wages that were paid to the Chinese workers who came to the United States along with their horrific discrimination is often skimmed over in history books. Visiting the Pendleton Underground brought life to this neglected period of American history.
We decided to stay in Pendleton for the night as the tour ended late in the afternoon and the weather continued to be wintery.
Since we are clearly experience winter conditions, the idea of camping in an RV park is not on our agenda. Although the winter weather is mild compared to Maine, the water system in the RV freezes up when it gets below 32 degrees. In addition, the state parks are closed for the season which means we would not be able to have water or take a shower. We have dry camped a few times but where the weather was a bit warmer. With that in mind, we are staying in hotels for a few weeks. The scenery in Washington is too beautiful to miss so a few hotels along the way are just fine.
Following our stay at the Columbia River Gorge Hotel, we continued east as far as Pendleton, Oregon where we visited the Pendleton Woolen factory where Mark bought a couple of shirts. Pendleton is a small city with a population of about 16,000 and the median home value is about $150,000. We found a small sandwich place and talked to a few locals. It turns out that Pendleton has a very interesting history. In 1883 the transcontinental railroad linked Portland to the East Coast so by the late 1800’s the Chinese workers who helped build these railroads were now competing for jobs and depressing wages. The Chinese workers who lived in Pendleton were not allowed to live above ground, prohibited from becoming citizens or owning land. Because the Chinese lived below ground , they had built an entire city with opium dens, brothels, apothecaries, butcher shop, bars, and laundries. These underground areas were connected by a series of tunnels with secret entrances and passage ways. The Chinese were victims of crimes especially by Cowboys who would venture into the city after their time on the range. Due to the “exclusion laws” it was possible to commit all sorts of crimes against the Chinese including murder without fear of punishment. This is a chapter of history that is often neglected. The “coolie” wages that were paid to the Chinese workers who came to the United States along with their horrific discrimination is often skimmed over in history books. Visiting the Pendleton Underground brought life to this neglected period of American history.
We decided to stay in Pendleton for the night as the tour ended late in the afternoon and the weather continued to be wintery.
Thursday, February 22, 2018
Feb 19-20 Olympia To Hood River Washington
Feb 19-20
Olympia to Hood River, Washington
A bit of bad weather arrived with freezing temperatures and light snow. We opted to spend two nights in Olympia, the capital of Washington. The city sidewalks were dusted with about 2 inches of snow but schools were closed for the day. This would be a warm springtime snow storm in Maine. The temperatures were in the mid thirties with spring flowers in bloom. We actually had coffee in the morning at an outside seating with large soft snowflakes falling.
Olympia is located at the south end of an inlet section of the Puget Sound. It has a waterfront area with a farmers market, waterfront restaurants, and fishing boats. The Farmers Market was only open on Saturdays this time of the year, so we were not able to experience that. I remember visiting the Saturday Farmers Market in Eugene when Kate was in college. It seemed to consume the entire town with fresh foods and handmade items.
We have reservations at Lake Chelan on March 2 so we are trying to plan our trip across the Cascades without getting trapped on icy mountain roads or a snow storm. On the advice of locals, we decided to take the Columbia River Gorge Route 84 across the Cascades. We needed to backtrack south just north of Portland, Oregon then east on to Route 84. More snow was falling but we managed to drive to Hood River. We found a lovely 1920 hotel and spa overlooking the Hood River, The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa. This is an ornate hotel with classic brass and glass chandeliers, an Otis 1920 elevator that needed an operator to take us to our room, and a glass enclosed dining room overlooking the Hood river. There are seven acres of landscaped gardens that surround the property that provide walking trails to waterfalls, a beautiful dog friendly spot. Even though there is snow on the ground the rhododendrons are blossoming, the daffodils are budding and the English Ivy covers stone walls along the pathways. Since there are only 6 guests in the hotel, we have been treated like royalty. We plan to stay here for two nights as we watch the weather forecast and road conditions.
Olympia to Hood River, Washington
A bit of bad weather arrived with freezing temperatures and light snow. We opted to spend two nights in Olympia, the capital of Washington. The city sidewalks were dusted with about 2 inches of snow but schools were closed for the day. This would be a warm springtime snow storm in Maine. The temperatures were in the mid thirties with spring flowers in bloom. We actually had coffee in the morning at an outside seating with large soft snowflakes falling.
Olympia is located at the south end of an inlet section of the Puget Sound. It has a waterfront area with a farmers market, waterfront restaurants, and fishing boats. The Farmers Market was only open on Saturdays this time of the year, so we were not able to experience that. I remember visiting the Saturday Farmers Market in Eugene when Kate was in college. It seemed to consume the entire town with fresh foods and handmade items.
We have reservations at Lake Chelan on March 2 so we are trying to plan our trip across the Cascades without getting trapped on icy mountain roads or a snow storm. On the advice of locals, we decided to take the Columbia River Gorge Route 84 across the Cascades. We needed to backtrack south just north of Portland, Oregon then east on to Route 84. More snow was falling but we managed to drive to Hood River. We found a lovely 1920 hotel and spa overlooking the Hood River, The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa. This is an ornate hotel with classic brass and glass chandeliers, an Otis 1920 elevator that needed an operator to take us to our room, and a glass enclosed dining room overlooking the Hood river. There are seven acres of landscaped gardens that surround the property that provide walking trails to waterfalls, a beautiful dog friendly spot. Even though there is snow on the ground the rhododendrons are blossoming, the daffodils are budding and the English Ivy covers stone walls along the pathways. Since there are only 6 guests in the hotel, we have been treated like royalty. We plan to stay here for two nights as we watch the weather forecast and road conditions.
Monday, February 19, 2018
Feb 17-18 Ilwaco Washington (The Evergreen State)
Feb 17th
We arrived in Astoria, Oregon late on a rainy afternoon only to discover that every hotel was booked due to a beer festival. The weather prediction was heavy rain for the next 2 days so we moved on to Ilwaco, Washington a small fishing town. It was quite run down with very little activity on the docks. We were tired and with the prediction of heavy rain and snow in some areas, we decided to stay for two nights and wait out the bad weather. The pounding rain continued through the night but by morning the rain had stopped and we were able to be on our way up the coast of Washington.
Route 101 continues to be the beautifully scenic Pacific Coast Highway. The geography of the Washington coast had been carved by glaciers during the last ice age and have created the rugged terrain that often falls sharply to the sea. There are many rivers, lakes and mountains that add to the dimension of the landscape. The weather is similar to springtime in Maine with temperatures in the 30’s and 40’s at night and up to 50 during the daytime. There is a fine layer of snow on the sides of the roads with Rhododendrons budding and some with pink blossoms. Grape Hyacinths have displayed their purple fragrant flowers and daffodil faces are smiling in the snow. The Douglas Firs stand 200 to 300 feet tall and completely dominate the landscape growing up the sides of the mountains creating lush deep green forests. There are areas of clear cutting where logging trucks carry away the huge red logs for manufacturing. This was sad to see but there were areas of new growth forests that were evidence of organized planting and conservation.
Oysterville is a small village on a thin peninsula of land just north of Long Beach. It consisted of summer homes that were exceptionally well maintained with lovely seaside gardens and reminded us of a west coast Little Diamond Island.
We continued our drive north to South Bend where we saw incredible surf with breakers crashing at least a mile out to sea at Shoalwater Bay. This area is home to the Shoalwater Bay tribe. Washington is home to many Native American tribes with designated reservation lands throughout the state. Evidence of Native art is everywhere and is most prominently seen in the many colorful totem poles.
Lake Quinault is situated at the southern end of the Olympic National Park and where we rented a cabin at the Olympic Rainforest Village. We ate our spaghetti dinner next to the fireplace with a bottle of red wine. It had snowed the night before leaving about 2 inches of new snow on the ground. Temperatures dropped below freezing at night but the next day was full sunshine and warm. We took a short walk and followed a sign to find the largest known Douglas Fir Tree. It stands 191 feet tall and is about 1000 years old. Magnificent beautiful tree!
Since the weather was warm and sunny, we made the decision to drive route 101 all around the Olympic National Park. The park is a natural rainforest and I believe the only one in north America. The area receives about 150 inches of precipitation a year making it lush, green and beautiful. Unfortunately, because it is winter, the campsites within the park were closed. There was significant snow in the higher elevations which was visible at a distance as we drove through the park. Mount Olympus is over 7900 feet with other nearby mountains around 6000 feet. We continued our drive around the Olympic Peninsula to Port Angeles, a lovely port town with a ferry to Victoria, Canada located just across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
The mountains, snow, tall ferns, huge firs, fresh clean air and sunshine make this one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.
We arrived in Astoria, Oregon late on a rainy afternoon only to discover that every hotel was booked due to a beer festival. The weather prediction was heavy rain for the next 2 days so we moved on to Ilwaco, Washington a small fishing town. It was quite run down with very little activity on the docks. We were tired and with the prediction of heavy rain and snow in some areas, we decided to stay for two nights and wait out the bad weather. The pounding rain continued through the night but by morning the rain had stopped and we were able to be on our way up the coast of Washington.
Route 101 continues to be the beautifully scenic Pacific Coast Highway. The geography of the Washington coast had been carved by glaciers during the last ice age and have created the rugged terrain that often falls sharply to the sea. There are many rivers, lakes and mountains that add to the dimension of the landscape. The weather is similar to springtime in Maine with temperatures in the 30’s and 40’s at night and up to 50 during the daytime. There is a fine layer of snow on the sides of the roads with Rhododendrons budding and some with pink blossoms. Grape Hyacinths have displayed their purple fragrant flowers and daffodil faces are smiling in the snow. The Douglas Firs stand 200 to 300 feet tall and completely dominate the landscape growing up the sides of the mountains creating lush deep green forests. There are areas of clear cutting where logging trucks carry away the huge red logs for manufacturing. This was sad to see but there were areas of new growth forests that were evidence of organized planting and conservation.
Oysterville is a small village on a thin peninsula of land just north of Long Beach. It consisted of summer homes that were exceptionally well maintained with lovely seaside gardens and reminded us of a west coast Little Diamond Island.
We continued our drive north to South Bend where we saw incredible surf with breakers crashing at least a mile out to sea at Shoalwater Bay. This area is home to the Shoalwater Bay tribe. Washington is home to many Native American tribes with designated reservation lands throughout the state. Evidence of Native art is everywhere and is most prominently seen in the many colorful totem poles.
Lake Quinault is situated at the southern end of the Olympic National Park and where we rented a cabin at the Olympic Rainforest Village. We ate our spaghetti dinner next to the fireplace with a bottle of red wine. It had snowed the night before leaving about 2 inches of new snow on the ground. Temperatures dropped below freezing at night but the next day was full sunshine and warm. We took a short walk and followed a sign to find the largest known Douglas Fir Tree. It stands 191 feet tall and is about 1000 years old. Magnificent beautiful tree!
Since the weather was warm and sunny, we made the decision to drive route 101 all around the Olympic National Park. The park is a natural rainforest and I believe the only one in north America. The area receives about 150 inches of precipitation a year making it lush, green and beautiful. Unfortunately, because it is winter, the campsites within the park were closed. There was significant snow in the higher elevations which was visible at a distance as we drove through the park. Mount Olympus is over 7900 feet with other nearby mountains around 6000 feet. We continued our drive around the Olympic Peninsula to Port Angeles, a lovely port town with a ferry to Victoria, Canada located just across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
The mountains, snow, tall ferns, huge firs, fresh clean air and sunshine make this one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.
Sunday, February 11, 2018
Feb 10- 17 Oregon Coast.
Feb 10 Oregon Coast
We have decided to camp all the way up the coast of Oregon as far as Astoria. It is a gorgeous coastline with pine forests and sand dunes along the way. Small fishing villages offer great stops for lunch or a morning coffee for very interesting people watching and the occasional cannabis shops with names like Buds4U and Harvest Mood Cannabis!
I will continually update this particular post and list our campsites and trails along the way.
The weather on the coast of Oregon is warm, sunny with a few showers. This has been a very atypical winter for this area. Serious drought conditions exist in all of the northwest.
We have decided to camp all the way up the coast of Oregon as far as Astoria. It is a gorgeous coastline with pine forests and sand dunes along the way. Small fishing villages offer great stops for lunch or a morning coffee for very interesting people watching and the occasional cannabis shops with names like Buds4U and Harvest Mood Cannabis!
I will continually update this particular post and list our campsites and trails along the way.
The weather on the coast of Oregon is warm, sunny with a few showers. This has been a very atypical winter for this area. Serious drought conditions exist in all of the northwest.
- Feb 10-11: The State Parks are beautiful and provide hiking trails all along the coastal region. We are spending two nights at Bullards Beach then slowly move up the coast. This particular State Park was the best we have been in so far on our trip, clean hot water showers, green grass to set up our picnic dinners, and extremely well maintained and marked trails. This is only the second day in 3 months that we have any rain.
- Feb 12: Suislaw National Parks and Land Services: This is a very wooded area with electricity, but no water, no bathrooms or showers this time of the year. It is hard to imagine this is winter with temperatures in the mid 50’s. We hiked a short trail through a pine forest to the dunes. (Sunshine all day).
- Feb 14 Valentines Day. We spent the night at the Inn at Nye Beach. We had a lovely room overlooking the beach. Mark arranged a great dinner celebration at the Clear Water restaurant near the Aquarium. It was a valentines special with rose petals on the table and a glass of champagne. Unfortunately the day was saddened by another school shooting in Florida. The horror of these events will not end until something is done about gun control.
- Feb15. We are continuing our drive north on 101. The Oregon Coast is spectacular and I am so glad we have the time to explore it slowly. This morning we woke up to full double rainbow over the ocean. It was a ray of brilliant color on the morning following such sadness in Florida.
- Feb 16: Cape Lookout State Park. This particular state park was exceptionally beautiful. It was such a pleasure to have running hot water in the showers. The spaces were large and had been freshly mowed. The walking trails around the park were beautiful and well maintained. The entire Oregon coast line is ruggedly beautiful.
- We have traveled the entire 362 miles of the Oregon coast on route 101 and have enjoyed almost every scenic view along the way. From the Northern California coastline to the Washington border, every part of the Oregon coast is an experience in natural wonders, from massive sand dunes, forests of Douglas Fir trees and a very cold ocean with huge beaches, some sandy, some rocky but none are swimmable because of the very cold water. There are small Oceanside farms, lighthouses, bustling harbors, fishing villages, and exceptional state parks and hiking trails.
Saturday, February 10, 2018
Feb. 8 Avenue of the Giants
Feb 8-9 Mendocino to the Avenue of the Giants
We left our beach camp around noon and headed north to Mendocino. This one time run down little coastal village sits on a point of land surrounded by the Pacific Ocean. In has been transformed to a charming Victorian town, complete with white fences and manicured seaside flower gardens. The homes have been restored to their original colors, mostly white, with typical ornate wood work of the Victorian era. It has new age art studios and a theatre for local performances and of course an organic market and coffee shop where we enjoyed our morning brew. The town has an upscale atmosphere while keeping the traditional style. It looks like it could be a west coast setting for an episode of “Murder She Wrote”.
Continuing on our way north, we entered the Avenue of the Giants. This route took us through the Humboldt State Park a protected home to a primeval Redwood Forest. Redwoods are coastal-northern California coast primarily. A tree that is often confused with the Redwood is the Sequoia which are inland on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada to the southern Sequoia National park. Although similar, they are two different trees. To say that the Redwoods are magnificent is an understatement. They tower over the landscape to over 300 feet, creating a bed of soft black earth on the forest floor. Their pine needles are small but plentiful filling the air with a moist fragrance of wood and pine. Moss and giant ferns are plentiful under these massive trees. Some of these trees were seedlings about 2000 years ago and are now the tallest trees on earth. There is a constant moisture in the air which provides a micro-climate of cool, damp air. During the day, the forest is particularly dark due to the height of the trees. The sunlight that does come through appears like a laser beam of light pointed to branches but rarely reaching the forest floor. There is a beautiful quietness to the forest providing a gentle peacefulness. John Muir’s quote: “The clearest way into the universe is through a forest wilderness.”
Humboldt State Park was open for camping but no services this time of the year . We were able to dry camp once again.
In the morning, we took a small hike through one of the designated trails. There were massive logs from fallen trees left to rot in place nourishing the soil for future trees. Once again, we are reminded of the importance to protect these beautiful natural landscapes. To spend time sleeping, eating and breathing the air in a Redwood forest is an honor and a privilege. We are grateful that the Redwoods National Park and Redwoods State Park services ensure protection and preservation of more than 105,000 acres of redwood forest.
Feb 9
We spent one more night in the Humboldt Park but at a different location, an Elk Reserve. This site was a very moist and damp environment with a thick moss covering most of the tree limbs. Although we were still in the Humboldt Park this was not an area of Redwoods but smaller pines and disiduous Trees. In the early evening we took a walk to the open grass area and spotted a small herd of grazing Roosevelt Elk.
After a few days of dry camping we are ready to find a campsite with shower services.
We left our beach camp around noon and headed north to Mendocino. This one time run down little coastal village sits on a point of land surrounded by the Pacific Ocean. In has been transformed to a charming Victorian town, complete with white fences and manicured seaside flower gardens. The homes have been restored to their original colors, mostly white, with typical ornate wood work of the Victorian era. It has new age art studios and a theatre for local performances and of course an organic market and coffee shop where we enjoyed our morning brew. The town has an upscale atmosphere while keeping the traditional style. It looks like it could be a west coast setting for an episode of “Murder She Wrote”.
Continuing on our way north, we entered the Avenue of the Giants. This route took us through the Humboldt State Park a protected home to a primeval Redwood Forest. Redwoods are coastal-northern California coast primarily. A tree that is often confused with the Redwood is the Sequoia which are inland on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada to the southern Sequoia National park. Although similar, they are two different trees. To say that the Redwoods are magnificent is an understatement. They tower over the landscape to over 300 feet, creating a bed of soft black earth on the forest floor. Their pine needles are small but plentiful filling the air with a moist fragrance of wood and pine. Moss and giant ferns are plentiful under these massive trees. Some of these trees were seedlings about 2000 years ago and are now the tallest trees on earth. There is a constant moisture in the air which provides a micro-climate of cool, damp air. During the day, the forest is particularly dark due to the height of the trees. The sunlight that does come through appears like a laser beam of light pointed to branches but rarely reaching the forest floor. There is a beautiful quietness to the forest providing a gentle peacefulness. John Muir’s quote: “The clearest way into the universe is through a forest wilderness.”
Humboldt State Park was open for camping but no services this time of the year . We were able to dry camp once again.
In the morning, we took a small hike through one of the designated trails. There were massive logs from fallen trees left to rot in place nourishing the soil for future trees. Once again, we are reminded of the importance to protect these beautiful natural landscapes. To spend time sleeping, eating and breathing the air in a Redwood forest is an honor and a privilege. We are grateful that the Redwoods National Park and Redwoods State Park services ensure protection and preservation of more than 105,000 acres of redwood forest.
Feb 9
We spent one more night in the Humboldt Park but at a different location, an Elk Reserve. This site was a very moist and damp environment with a thick moss covering most of the tree limbs. Although we were still in the Humboldt Park this was not an area of Redwoods but smaller pines and disiduous Trees. In the early evening we took a walk to the open grass area and spotted a small herd of grazing Roosevelt Elk.
After a few days of dry camping we are ready to find a campsite with shower services.
Feb. 7 Route 1 Continued
Feb 7. California Route 1
Driving north on the Pacific coast continues to be a visual wonder. Sea stacks with arches cut by water, wind, and time are seemingly set purposefully close to the shore line. Waves crash against these rock structures creating spectacular water sprays. From high cliffs we watched waves break and spread onto the shoreline like icing on a cake.
The cerulean blue of the ocean is clear, deep and dark. There are coastal coves cut sharply into the landscapes forming flat topped ocean mesas. Some are covered with a moss that is as green as Ireland.
Brown stained barnboard ranch homes are set overlooking the sea with fields dotted with black Angus cows grazing on fresh grass.
The Eucalyptus groves that frequent the drive combine their scent with the Douglas firs and salt air to invite a deep cleansing breath.
We drove a short distance today and settled into a small Park nestled under a bridge on a beach near Elk, California. We were the only visitors that night. A quiet night!
Driving north on the Pacific coast continues to be a visual wonder. Sea stacks with arches cut by water, wind, and time are seemingly set purposefully close to the shore line. Waves crash against these rock structures creating spectacular water sprays. From high cliffs we watched waves break and spread onto the shoreline like icing on a cake.
The cerulean blue of the ocean is clear, deep and dark. There are coastal coves cut sharply into the landscapes forming flat topped ocean mesas. Some are covered with a moss that is as green as Ireland.
Brown stained barnboard ranch homes are set overlooking the sea with fields dotted with black Angus cows grazing on fresh grass.
The Eucalyptus groves that frequent the drive combine their scent with the Douglas firs and salt air to invite a deep cleansing breath.
We drove a short distance today and settled into a small Park nestled under a bridge on a beach near Elk, California. We were the only visitors that night. A quiet night!
Feb 5-7 Route 1 North of San Francisco
Route 1
We had a sweet good-bye dinner with Mike following another gorgeous sunset at Pacific Grove. In the morning, we discovered that our rear view mirror had fallen off again. Mike was handy and able to fix it for us. He found an auto shop nearby and bought the required glue to hold it in place. The last time we had it fixed it cost $80.; this time the glue was $8.00, Mike’s cost “priceless”. This set us all about an hour behind our scheduled departure but it didn’t really matter that much to either of us.
Mark and I headed north on Route 1. It took us through the center of San Francisco on a beautiful sunny afternoon. We had lunch at the Cliff House overlooking San Francisco Bay and Seal Rocks where sea lions congregate. The last time I was there was 1960 with my parents. The views of the bay were still as beautiful as back then, but the restaurant had been renovated a few times since then. This was a wonderful memory of being in San Francisco.
The drive up the coast took us over the Golden Gate Bridge into Sausalito and soon out of the city. The coastline north of San Francisco on Route 1 hugs the rugged shoreline with sharp turns wrapping around high cliffs. About 30 years ago Mark and I spent 2 weeks along this very route. Back then, we spent our first night at a lodge overlooking steep cliffs from the hot tub off our deck. The lodge was located right off the road among a forest of Juniper trees. Raccoons were everywhere on the property lapping up the water from the hot tubs. Our room overlooked the sea, however, we could only hear it because of the heavy fog that night. We both have fond memories of that place, everything but the name of it or where it was!
Now, as we are driving the same route we thought we might be able to find that Inn and relive a wonderful memory. Once it was dark, driving on the narrow curving road became more difficult. We decided to stop at the next available inn. We clearly were not able to find that Inn from 30 years ago. We pulled into Timber Cove Inn for the night. We were both tired, especially Mark who had done all the driving. A quick Manhattan at the bar was a welcomed nightcap. We had asked the bartender if he possibly knew of an Inn on the beach set among huge Junipers and possible raccoons all around. He looked at and said “This is that place.!” Timber Cove had been sold and remodeled. The trees were cleared and raccoons relocated. What an amazing coincidence!
We had a sweet good-bye dinner with Mike following another gorgeous sunset at Pacific Grove. In the morning, we discovered that our rear view mirror had fallen off again. Mike was handy and able to fix it for us. He found an auto shop nearby and bought the required glue to hold it in place. The last time we had it fixed it cost $80.; this time the glue was $8.00, Mike’s cost “priceless”. This set us all about an hour behind our scheduled departure but it didn’t really matter that much to either of us.
Mark and I headed north on Route 1. It took us through the center of San Francisco on a beautiful sunny afternoon. We had lunch at the Cliff House overlooking San Francisco Bay and Seal Rocks where sea lions congregate. The last time I was there was 1960 with my parents. The views of the bay were still as beautiful as back then, but the restaurant had been renovated a few times since then. This was a wonderful memory of being in San Francisco.
The drive up the coast took us over the Golden Gate Bridge into Sausalito and soon out of the city. The coastline north of San Francisco on Route 1 hugs the rugged shoreline with sharp turns wrapping around high cliffs. About 30 years ago Mark and I spent 2 weeks along this very route. Back then, we spent our first night at a lodge overlooking steep cliffs from the hot tub off our deck. The lodge was located right off the road among a forest of Juniper trees. Raccoons were everywhere on the property lapping up the water from the hot tubs. Our room overlooked the sea, however, we could only hear it because of the heavy fog that night. We both have fond memories of that place, everything but the name of it or where it was!
Now, as we are driving the same route we thought we might be able to find that Inn and relive a wonderful memory. Once it was dark, driving on the narrow curving road became more difficult. We decided to stop at the next available inn. We clearly were not able to find that Inn from 30 years ago. We pulled into Timber Cove Inn for the night. We were both tired, especially Mark who had done all the driving. A quick Manhattan at the bar was a welcomed nightcap. We had asked the bartender if he possibly knew of an Inn on the beach set among huge Junipers and possible raccoons all around. He looked at and said “This is that place.!” Timber Cove had been sold and remodeled. The trees were cleared and raccoons relocated. What an amazing coincidence!
Thursday, February 8, 2018
Feb 3-4 Monterey, CA
Feb 3-4: Monterey, Carmel and the Pacific Coast Highway
The time at Pismo Beach left us sandy and dirty so we scheduled two nights at a hotel in Pacific Grove. We planned to drive the Pacific Coast Highway south of Monterey along Route 1. Mike was our official driver in his Subaru. We did a quick tour through Carmel then headed south on the most picturesque road in California. We were able to drive about 70 miles south to where the road was closed off then turned around and drove back to Pacific Grove. As we drove south, the road twisted and turned around steep canyons and cliffs that fall to the sea. We stopped often to take pictures only to realize that the next turn would uncover an even more spectacular view. The juniper trees along the road were often wind swept in an easterly direction giving them artistic shapes and forms. The tall Eucalyptus trees with their long strands of peeling bark provided their clean, perfumery scent in groves along the way. Often, the cliffs would fall sharply to the sea and other times the land gently rolled to the sea. The fields on the hillsides are springtime green which is a dramatic change from our desert environment. Some parts reminded me of the western shore of Ireland and other parts of the northern coast of Maine. We reached the end of the road and fortunately there was a quaint little place to have lunch overlooking the ocean. About 10 miles of the road were closed off due to the mud slides.
The return trip, although the same road provided a totally different view of the landscape. We saw cliffs, canyons, trees, farmland that we did not notice on the drive south. It is amazing how just a turn around can change one’s entire perspective.
The day was full of sunshine and beautiful memories.
The time at Pismo Beach left us sandy and dirty so we scheduled two nights at a hotel in Pacific Grove. We planned to drive the Pacific Coast Highway south of Monterey along Route 1. Mike was our official driver in his Subaru. We did a quick tour through Carmel then headed south on the most picturesque road in California. We were able to drive about 70 miles south to where the road was closed off then turned around and drove back to Pacific Grove. As we drove south, the road twisted and turned around steep canyons and cliffs that fall to the sea. We stopped often to take pictures only to realize that the next turn would uncover an even more spectacular view. The juniper trees along the road were often wind swept in an easterly direction giving them artistic shapes and forms. The tall Eucalyptus trees with their long strands of peeling bark provided their clean, perfumery scent in groves along the way. Often, the cliffs would fall sharply to the sea and other times the land gently rolled to the sea. The fields on the hillsides are springtime green which is a dramatic change from our desert environment. Some parts reminded me of the western shore of Ireland and other parts of the northern coast of Maine. We reached the end of the road and fortunately there was a quaint little place to have lunch overlooking the ocean. About 10 miles of the road were closed off due to the mud slides.
The return trip, although the same road provided a totally different view of the landscape. We saw cliffs, canyons, trees, farmland that we did not notice on the drive south. It is amazing how just a turn around can change one’s entire perspective.
The day was full of sunshine and beautiful memories.
Wednesday, February 7, 2018
Feb 2-3 Pismo Beach
Feb 2-3 Pismo Beach
Mike was able to join us again at Pismo Beach, CA. He had visited a friend in San Diego then another friend in LA for a few days. Pismo Beach is a small town on California’s Central Coast. It is a wide open beach area where cars, RV’s and ATV’s, are all able to drive on the sand. There are magnificent dunes behind the beach front that are partly closed to protect the snowy plovers. Mark was nervous about driving on the sand in the RV but Mike convinced us that it would be fine. Mark was convinced we would get stuck on the beach. Sure enough, as we made the turn to park the van, we got stuck. Mike who had been traveling from Wyoming, was prepared with a snow shovel. Mike got us out of our rut and maneuvered the van for us. Mike, of course, had no problem with his 4 wheel drive car. We had to listen to a lecture on positive thinking from Mike. It went something like this: “Gee, Dad, if you think the worst, it will happen!”
The snowy plovers are my new favorite bird. They are tiny white and grey with the ability to zip back and forth chasing the waves in hopes some morsel of food comes in with a wave. With their backs toward the sea, they look like tiny snowflakes on the sand. Since this is their nesting season I am glad to know that they are protected.
For a while we were alone on the beach, however, later in the day ATV’s filled the area. This must be a local thrill because it seemed everyone in town comes to the beach and cruises through the open areas of the dunes. The night lights on the ATV’s were colorful and bright. Evidently driving on the dunes at night is dangerously dark so the more lights one has on their ATV, the better. Although I would have preferred a more quiet time on the beach, it was fun to watch the locals enjoy themselves.
Mike and Mark dug a pit in the sand and built a great fire for cooking our steak. We spent the evening sitting around the fire and watching a colorful sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
A short walk from Pismo beach is the Monarch Butterly Grove. Thousands of Monarchs were fluttering in the Eucalyptus Trees, called clustering. We were fortunate to see these monarchs as this is the season for vieweing them, October through February. During this time the final generation of hibernating monarch butterflies comes out of hibernation to fine a mate. The sight of so many orange and black wings at one time was beautiful. They seemed to be enjoying themselves fluttering among the tree leaves as if to be playing by softly bumping into one another.
We spent two days and nights at Pismo Beach enjoying the warmth, the sun and a very restful time with Mike. When it was time to leave, Mark insisted that Mike drive our van out of the soft sand and onto the hard sand area where we could drive the van off the beach. That worked out well!
Mike was able to join us again at Pismo Beach, CA. He had visited a friend in San Diego then another friend in LA for a few days. Pismo Beach is a small town on California’s Central Coast. It is a wide open beach area where cars, RV’s and ATV’s, are all able to drive on the sand. There are magnificent dunes behind the beach front that are partly closed to protect the snowy plovers. Mark was nervous about driving on the sand in the RV but Mike convinced us that it would be fine. Mark was convinced we would get stuck on the beach. Sure enough, as we made the turn to park the van, we got stuck. Mike who had been traveling from Wyoming, was prepared with a snow shovel. Mike got us out of our rut and maneuvered the van for us. Mike, of course, had no problem with his 4 wheel drive car. We had to listen to a lecture on positive thinking from Mike. It went something like this: “Gee, Dad, if you think the worst, it will happen!”
The snowy plovers are my new favorite bird. They are tiny white and grey with the ability to zip back and forth chasing the waves in hopes some morsel of food comes in with a wave. With their backs toward the sea, they look like tiny snowflakes on the sand. Since this is their nesting season I am glad to know that they are protected.
For a while we were alone on the beach, however, later in the day ATV’s filled the area. This must be a local thrill because it seemed everyone in town comes to the beach and cruises through the open areas of the dunes. The night lights on the ATV’s were colorful and bright. Evidently driving on the dunes at night is dangerously dark so the more lights one has on their ATV, the better. Although I would have preferred a more quiet time on the beach, it was fun to watch the locals enjoy themselves.
Mike and Mark dug a pit in the sand and built a great fire for cooking our steak. We spent the evening sitting around the fire and watching a colorful sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
A short walk from Pismo beach is the Monarch Butterly Grove. Thousands of Monarchs were fluttering in the Eucalyptus Trees, called clustering. We were fortunate to see these monarchs as this is the season for vieweing them, October through February. During this time the final generation of hibernating monarch butterflies comes out of hibernation to fine a mate. The sight of so many orange and black wings at one time was beautiful. They seemed to be enjoying themselves fluttering among the tree leaves as if to be playing by softly bumping into one another.
We spent two days and nights at Pismo Beach enjoying the warmth, the sun and a very restful time with Mike. When it was time to leave, Mark insisted that Mike drive our van out of the soft sand and onto the hard sand area where we could drive the van off the beach. That worked out well!
Feb. 1 Halfway Point Reflections
Halfway: Feb 1
Today marks the half way mark in our 6 month adventure across the country. It has been a remarkable experience traveling in our little RV and managing to get along fine so far! We have put about 8,000 miles on the van and it too is doing well. There will be some repairs when we return to Maine but so far nothing too serious.
We have learned to economize in every way possible. Water for the most part is a constant worry. We buy water for drinking in 2 gallon jugs and try to drink as much as we can to stay hydrated. Showers are interesting in some of the California parks; there can be a charge of $.25 per minute. It is quick one but a $1.00 usually gets me clean including a shampoo. Our food supplies are also limited due to the small refrigerator and cabinet space. We plan our meals carefully, cooking only what we will eat for each meal. The most difficult economizing that I have done is wearing my clothes for 3-4 days at a time. We try to do laundry only as needed and so far that has worked out except when we left Joshua Tree. The desert sand, dirt and smell of open fire permeated all of our clothes. (I think I will need to go on a shopping spree when I return to Maine!).
I am surprised how quickly the time has gone by. It is hard to believe that we only have 3 months left with so much more to see. We have met interesting, friendly and helpful people all along the way. We haven’t gotten lost too often but when we do I shut up and let Siri do the talking. I will leave that argument between Mark and her and believe me it has happened.
There are lessons to be learned about stepping back, taking time to observe nature and not be encumbered with too much stuff. We have been able to stay abreast of the news, thanks mostly to John Zerner’s emails. Mark has even had a few momentary conversations with supporters of Trump without any serious consequences. Perhaps learning to listen is a first step in understanding. No minds were changed, however.
As today marks the halfway point of our adventure, we are happy, contented and overjoyed that we are able to have this time together and we are looking forward to the next 3 months.
Today marks the half way mark in our 6 month adventure across the country. It has been a remarkable experience traveling in our little RV and managing to get along fine so far! We have put about 8,000 miles on the van and it too is doing well. There will be some repairs when we return to Maine but so far nothing too serious.
We have learned to economize in every way possible. Water for the most part is a constant worry. We buy water for drinking in 2 gallon jugs and try to drink as much as we can to stay hydrated. Showers are interesting in some of the California parks; there can be a charge of $.25 per minute. It is quick one but a $1.00 usually gets me clean including a shampoo. Our food supplies are also limited due to the small refrigerator and cabinet space. We plan our meals carefully, cooking only what we will eat for each meal. The most difficult economizing that I have done is wearing my clothes for 3-4 days at a time. We try to do laundry only as needed and so far that has worked out except when we left Joshua Tree. The desert sand, dirt and smell of open fire permeated all of our clothes. (I think I will need to go on a shopping spree when I return to Maine!).
I am surprised how quickly the time has gone by. It is hard to believe that we only have 3 months left with so much more to see. We have met interesting, friendly and helpful people all along the way. We haven’t gotten lost too often but when we do I shut up and let Siri do the talking. I will leave that argument between Mark and her and believe me it has happened.
There are lessons to be learned about stepping back, taking time to observe nature and not be encumbered with too much stuff. We have been able to stay abreast of the news, thanks mostly to John Zerner’s emails. Mark has even had a few momentary conversations with supporters of Trump without any serious consequences. Perhaps learning to listen is a first step in understanding. No minds were changed, however.
As today marks the halfway point of our adventure, we are happy, contented and overjoyed that we are able to have this time together and we are looking forward to the next 3 months.
Thursday, February 1, 2018
January 30-Feb 1. Halfway point
Jan. 28th
Our choice to stay warm guided us to the coast of California. The drive through the desert continued to be windy. In fact, once we had gotten over the Los Padres Mts., we drove directly into a sandstorm. This was harrowing for Mark trying to control the van and see where were headed. Fortunately, we were able to pass through it in about 10 minutes. We chose the highways to get around Los Angeles as quickly as possibly. We heard that Highway 101 had recently been reopened due to horrific fires followed by rain and deadly mud slides.
There is a village north of Ventura, Carpinteria, that is located directly on the beach. The town of Carpinteria is charming, with a seaside feel but not too beachy with the smell of Eucalyptus Trees. We walked to town for dinner through a lovely park and charming side streets. It was a treat to have Thai food after our camping time in Joshua Tree. .Unfortunately, what used to be a beautiful beach was now littered with piles of debris from the fires and mud slides. There is a poisonous bacteria in the ocean, so no swimming. The once green hills that frame the town to the east were bare from the burn. Some of the side streets were still coated with a layer of mud. There is still much work to be done in the cleanup department in several of these coastal towns. This was a horrific and damaging and deadly series of storm events.
Because the beach was not accessible, we moved north to Refugio State Park. We were able to secure one of the last spaces for the RV. The State Parks are much more spacious for camping so we decided to stay an extra night. The beach here was clean and we witnessed a gorgeous sunset.
Jan. 30th
We are slowly making our way up the California coast and enjoying the beaches and small farming towns along the way. We are in Pismo Beach at the moment and waiting for one more visit with Mike before he heads back to Jackson. He had spent some time in San Diego and then with a friend in LA.
Our choice to stay warm guided us to the coast of California. The drive through the desert continued to be windy. In fact, once we had gotten over the Los Padres Mts., we drove directly into a sandstorm. This was harrowing for Mark trying to control the van and see where were headed. Fortunately, we were able to pass through it in about 10 minutes. We chose the highways to get around Los Angeles as quickly as possibly. We heard that Highway 101 had recently been reopened due to horrific fires followed by rain and deadly mud slides.
There is a village north of Ventura, Carpinteria, that is located directly on the beach. The town of Carpinteria is charming, with a seaside feel but not too beachy with the smell of Eucalyptus Trees. We walked to town for dinner through a lovely park and charming side streets. It was a treat to have Thai food after our camping time in Joshua Tree. .Unfortunately, what used to be a beautiful beach was now littered with piles of debris from the fires and mud slides. There is a poisonous bacteria in the ocean, so no swimming. The once green hills that frame the town to the east were bare from the burn. Some of the side streets were still coated with a layer of mud. There is still much work to be done in the cleanup department in several of these coastal towns. This was a horrific and damaging and deadly series of storm events.
Because the beach was not accessible, we moved north to Refugio State Park. We were able to secure one of the last spaces for the RV. The State Parks are much more spacious for camping so we decided to stay an extra night. The beach here was clean and we witnessed a gorgeous sunset.
Jan. 30th
We are slowly making our way up the California coast and enjoying the beaches and small farming towns along the way. We are in Pismo Beach at the moment and waiting for one more visit with Mike before he heads back to Jackson. He had spent some time in San Diego and then with a friend in LA.
Monday, January 29, 2018
Jan. 26th -28th Joshua Tree: More adventures with Mike
Jan. 26-28
Following our visit with our former neighbors in Temecula, we returned to Joshua Tree National Park where Mike had secured the perfect camp site at White Tank. It was a large space with a fire pit nestled in between giant boulders. The great rocks provided some wind protection, however, the katabatic winds picked up every evening and lasted all night. The days were relatively warm around 50 degrees but the nights were very cold. the first night was particularly cold, around 35 with wild winds. We had packed in all of our supplies which included gallons of drinking water. We were off the grid for about 48 hours, without satellite connections or electricity.
Since Mike decided to stay there while we visited our friends, he managed to meet up with other campers, hikers and bikers. Two bikers from Berkeley were next to us. They were on a road trip together as they were both between jobs. One of them, Caleb, was soon to be off with his father to Nepal where they will be doing some charity work building a school for the locals. His buddy, Cooper, was on his last bike ride because his now serious girlfriend doesn’t approve of motor cycles. Cooper had Mike decorate his tent by spray painting a scene of Joshua Trees. Cooper was thrilled with the design. Both young men were fun be around. We had a lot of laughs around the fire. Since I was the only woman, they called me mom the Desert Queen!
One other nearby camper was fondly named desert Dave. He was Native American with wild stories to tell. He was a lonesome sort, likeable, spiritual but with a sordid past including time in prison. He knew all of the trails in the park and had a collection of found objects. He gave me a piece of jade he found and told me it was good fortune. He seemed to be fragile like the environment that he lives in, spikey, sharp with a tender heart.
On the second day, Caleb had a fall on his motorcycle. He suffered minor injuries to his ribs and hand. He was going too fast on the sandy dirt road and made a sharp turn too quickly. With a little help from tools and homemade bandages and Neosporine, all should be fine.
Although very cold and windy, the night sky was bright with a waxing moon and millions of bright stars. Mike climbed a large heart-shaped boulder and hung tiny white lights from the top outlining the heart shape, a beautiful expression of his love for this park.
In the morning, we packed up all of our gear and said good-by to Mike and desert Dave. We were filthy and smelled like the Smokey fire that had been burning all night. Mike was on his way to San Diego to meet up with a Jackson buddy.
Time spent in Joshua Tree was cold, with harsh winds and sharp cacti everywhere. Survival here is difficult with a daily struggle for water. In spite of the harshness that exists, there is beauty and a reminder that this delicate landscape needs to be preserved. As Theodore Roosevelt said, “Here is your country. Cherish these natural wonders. Do not let selfish men and greedy interests skin your country of its beauty, its riches or its romance.”.
Following our visit with our former neighbors in Temecula, we returned to Joshua Tree National Park where Mike had secured the perfect camp site at White Tank. It was a large space with a fire pit nestled in between giant boulders. The great rocks provided some wind protection, however, the katabatic winds picked up every evening and lasted all night. The days were relatively warm around 50 degrees but the nights were very cold. the first night was particularly cold, around 35 with wild winds. We had packed in all of our supplies which included gallons of drinking water. We were off the grid for about 48 hours, without satellite connections or electricity.
Since Mike decided to stay there while we visited our friends, he managed to meet up with other campers, hikers and bikers. Two bikers from Berkeley were next to us. They were on a road trip together as they were both between jobs. One of them, Caleb, was soon to be off with his father to Nepal where they will be doing some charity work building a school for the locals. His buddy, Cooper, was on his last bike ride because his now serious girlfriend doesn’t approve of motor cycles. Cooper had Mike decorate his tent by spray painting a scene of Joshua Trees. Cooper was thrilled with the design. Both young men were fun be around. We had a lot of laughs around the fire. Since I was the only woman, they called me mom the Desert Queen!
One other nearby camper was fondly named desert Dave. He was Native American with wild stories to tell. He was a lonesome sort, likeable, spiritual but with a sordid past including time in prison. He knew all of the trails in the park and had a collection of found objects. He gave me a piece of jade he found and told me it was good fortune. He seemed to be fragile like the environment that he lives in, spikey, sharp with a tender heart.
On the second day, Caleb had a fall on his motorcycle. He suffered minor injuries to his ribs and hand. He was going too fast on the sandy dirt road and made a sharp turn too quickly. With a little help from tools and homemade bandages and Neosporine, all should be fine.
Although very cold and windy, the night sky was bright with a waxing moon and millions of bright stars. Mike climbed a large heart-shaped boulder and hung tiny white lights from the top outlining the heart shape, a beautiful expression of his love for this park.
In the morning, we packed up all of our gear and said good-by to Mike and desert Dave. We were filthy and smelled like the Smokey fire that had been burning all night. Mike was on his way to San Diego to meet up with a Jackson buddy.
Time spent in Joshua Tree was cold, with harsh winds and sharp cacti everywhere. Survival here is difficult with a daily struggle for water. In spite of the harshness that exists, there is beauty and a reminder that this delicate landscape needs to be preserved. As Theodore Roosevelt said, “Here is your country. Cherish these natural wonders. Do not let selfish men and greedy interests skin your country of its beauty, its riches or its romance.”.
Wednesday, January 24, 2018
January 20-22: Adventures with Mike
January 20
Indio, California
Our son, Mike showed up from Jackson, Wyoming late in the afternoon at the Shadow Hills Resort RV park where we were staying. He drove about a 1000 miles and we are really glad to be able to spend some time with him. We spent the next day touring the town of Palm Springs. The downtown area was filled with shops and Mexican restaurants. I think I was expecting more of a Hollywood atmosphere but that was not the case. It was low key town with outside seating at most of the restaurants. It seemed to be a livable area with homes off the Main Street that were not austentatious. I am sure that there were homes up in the hills that were much more elegant but we stayed in town. Las Casuelas was an outdoor Mexican restaurant where we had lunch. They had a live band that played some Mexican music and some music from the 50’s; quite the variety.
After lunch we tried to drive up to the San Bernardino National Forest and check out Mt San Jacinto Park. The drive up the mountain proved to be a bit too windy with some icy spots so we did not make it all the way to the top. We had decided early on that our excursion would not include high mountain roads with ice or snow. We found a place to turn around and head back to the park for our last night there.
Mike wanted to return to Joshua Tree and camp there for a night. Even though the government is shut down the park was accessible but with no services. It was on a first come-first-serve basis to find a campsite. We found one at Cottonwood Springs located at the southern end of the park. Mike set up his tent which claimed our spot. We then drove to the more northern part of park where the giant boulders are located. Mike climbed “skull rock” which as its name implies is a giant boulder that from a bit of a distance looks like a giant skull. Mike, an experienced climber, skier and all around extreme character, saw no problem fitting into the small crevices up to the top of the skull. Neither Mark nor I attempted to make that climb, even after Mike offered his assistance.
As we were returning to our campsite, the early evening sun was casting shades of pinks, tourquois, blues and yellows. We were watching a water color in the making, soft tones that blended into one another creating a sense of quiet peacefulness. Once at the campsite we prepared a steak dinner for the three of us and shared good memories. The desert night sky, lacking any light pollution, was bright with a magnificent star-light show, the Milkyway, the Little Dipper, Orion’s Belt and many others that I can’t name were all distinct and seemed close enough to touch. Although cold and windy, it was a beautiful night.
Mike planned to spend one more night in the park up in the northern area where the giant boulders are. We had previous plans to meet our former Florida neighbors who recently moved to Temecula. Before leaving, Mark and Mike had fun trying to fly kites in the high winds. Mark was a bit more successful than Mike but they both had a frustratingly good time.
Temecula was about a two and half hour drive west from Joshua Tree. We arrived around 3:00 and were served a lovely lunch on their patio. Boog and Suzanne’s home is beautifully located on a high hill overlooking snow-capped mountains to the east and white picketed fence horse-farms to the west. The neighborhood is a quiet one with palm trees, redwoods, and eucalyptus trees. They have a lovely fenced in back yard with plenty of room for the dogs. Their home is much larger than their Florida one with 3 bedrooms on the second floor. They were able to update their kitchen and bathrooms prior to moving in with state of the art quartz counter tops, new appliances with a soft blue-grey toned cabinets. Their antique furniture is a perfect fit for all of the rooms. They are expecting their first grandchild in July so they are especially happy to be here near their sons.
In a day or so we will meet up with Mike again and camp at bit north of Los Angeles, hoping to stay warm for awhile then head to the wine country in Napa.
Indio, California
Our son, Mike showed up from Jackson, Wyoming late in the afternoon at the Shadow Hills Resort RV park where we were staying. He drove about a 1000 miles and we are really glad to be able to spend some time with him. We spent the next day touring the town of Palm Springs. The downtown area was filled with shops and Mexican restaurants. I think I was expecting more of a Hollywood atmosphere but that was not the case. It was low key town with outside seating at most of the restaurants. It seemed to be a livable area with homes off the Main Street that were not austentatious. I am sure that there were homes up in the hills that were much more elegant but we stayed in town. Las Casuelas was an outdoor Mexican restaurant where we had lunch. They had a live band that played some Mexican music and some music from the 50’s; quite the variety.
After lunch we tried to drive up to the San Bernardino National Forest and check out Mt San Jacinto Park. The drive up the mountain proved to be a bit too windy with some icy spots so we did not make it all the way to the top. We had decided early on that our excursion would not include high mountain roads with ice or snow. We found a place to turn around and head back to the park for our last night there.
Mike wanted to return to Joshua Tree and camp there for a night. Even though the government is shut down the park was accessible but with no services. It was on a first come-first-serve basis to find a campsite. We found one at Cottonwood Springs located at the southern end of the park. Mike set up his tent which claimed our spot. We then drove to the more northern part of park where the giant boulders are located. Mike climbed “skull rock” which as its name implies is a giant boulder that from a bit of a distance looks like a giant skull. Mike, an experienced climber, skier and all around extreme character, saw no problem fitting into the small crevices up to the top of the skull. Neither Mark nor I attempted to make that climb, even after Mike offered his assistance.
As we were returning to our campsite, the early evening sun was casting shades of pinks, tourquois, blues and yellows. We were watching a water color in the making, soft tones that blended into one another creating a sense of quiet peacefulness. Once at the campsite we prepared a steak dinner for the three of us and shared good memories. The desert night sky, lacking any light pollution, was bright with a magnificent star-light show, the Milkyway, the Little Dipper, Orion’s Belt and many others that I can’t name were all distinct and seemed close enough to touch. Although cold and windy, it was a beautiful night.
Mike planned to spend one more night in the park up in the northern area where the giant boulders are. We had previous plans to meet our former Florida neighbors who recently moved to Temecula. Before leaving, Mark and Mike had fun trying to fly kites in the high winds. Mark was a bit more successful than Mike but they both had a frustratingly good time.
Temecula was about a two and half hour drive west from Joshua Tree. We arrived around 3:00 and were served a lovely lunch on their patio. Boog and Suzanne’s home is beautifully located on a high hill overlooking snow-capped mountains to the east and white picketed fence horse-farms to the west. The neighborhood is a quiet one with palm trees, redwoods, and eucalyptus trees. They have a lovely fenced in back yard with plenty of room for the dogs. Their home is much larger than their Florida one with 3 bedrooms on the second floor. They were able to update their kitchen and bathrooms prior to moving in with state of the art quartz counter tops, new appliances with a soft blue-grey toned cabinets. Their antique furniture is a perfect fit for all of the rooms. They are expecting their first grandchild in July so they are especially happy to be here near their sons.
In a day or so we will meet up with Mike again and camp at bit north of Los Angeles, hoping to stay warm for awhile then head to the wine country in Napa.
Friday, January 19, 2018
Jan. 18-19 Indio, California
Indio, California
We made a change in our RV park because we felt very confined. Our new space at a different park is more spacious. It is hard sometimes to tell how nice an RV park might be by looking at the web site. The posted photos are usually beautiful with angles that make the spaces look huge. We are now at Shadow Hills Resort and so far so good. We are located close to Joshua Tree National Monument and Palm Springs.
After an early morning coffee and breakfast we planned a day trip to Joshua Tree National Monument. In the quiet of the early morning I noticed something that had been missing, the sound of song birds. We have been in winter desert areas for the past month or so and were impressed with all the visual beauty and silences of the canyons. However, this morning, I heard song birds singing. What a pleasant surprise to hear that familiar cheerful sound. The southern California desert area is a bit greener than southern Arizona so the birds have made their homes here.
Joshua Tree National Monument was designated a National Monument in 1936 by Franklin D Roosevelt. The park protects 792,510 acres with 80% of it managed as wilderness. It is located where the Mohave and Colorado desert converge. This large desert area is a diverse biological home to many species of plants and animals. The Joshua tree is evident everywhere. This tall spiny plant can grow up to 40 feet with clusters of cream colored flowers that occur in winter months. It is not actually a tree but a variety of the yucca plant. It’s name was given to the plant by a group of Mormons who settled in the area and thought that the many “arms” of the plant reminded them of Joshua raising his hands toward God.
Because this is a desert environment, the dry sandy soil gives life to spiny plants and slithery creatures who have adapted to little water, summer temperatures above 100 degrees and relentless sun. This seemingly harsh area is actually fragile. The threat to the survival of this delicate environment is due to human interference.
The first impression of the park is how different it is from a geological perspective. There are huge boulders and rock piles everywhere. It looked as if giant dump trucks emptied loads of rocks at a construction site, a very large construction site. The geology of this area is the result of millions of years of magma crystallizing below the earth’s surface. Earthquakes cracked the rock bringing it closer to the surface. Groundwater and wind have shaped the rocks and boulders into their unusual forms.
We hiked the Hidden Valley Trail. It is a loop trail that wound up and around huge boulders. Once we climbed over several boulders the trail opened up to a valley that was a cattle rustlers hideout. The valley was filled with scrubby prickly plants and surrounded by huge rock formations with rock climbers testing their skills. The hour long trail walk was a great adventure. We climbed over boulders, peeked through holes in the rocks and watched out for snakes.
Following our hike we drove to Keys View. At an elevation of 5,185 feet the views of the valley, mountains and desert we could got a peek of the San Andreas fault below. There was a heavy haze over the valley so the view was not as clear as expected.
The stark raw beauty of this desert area is a reminder that nature is a reflection of who we are as a human race, Will we continue to preserve this environment for future generations? What is the balance between conservation and development? What is worth saving; what is worth fighting for?
We made a change in our RV park because we felt very confined. Our new space at a different park is more spacious. It is hard sometimes to tell how nice an RV park might be by looking at the web site. The posted photos are usually beautiful with angles that make the spaces look huge. We are now at Shadow Hills Resort and so far so good. We are located close to Joshua Tree National Monument and Palm Springs.
After an early morning coffee and breakfast we planned a day trip to Joshua Tree National Monument. In the quiet of the early morning I noticed something that had been missing, the sound of song birds. We have been in winter desert areas for the past month or so and were impressed with all the visual beauty and silences of the canyons. However, this morning, I heard song birds singing. What a pleasant surprise to hear that familiar cheerful sound. The southern California desert area is a bit greener than southern Arizona so the birds have made their homes here.
Joshua Tree National Monument was designated a National Monument in 1936 by Franklin D Roosevelt. The park protects 792,510 acres with 80% of it managed as wilderness. It is located where the Mohave and Colorado desert converge. This large desert area is a diverse biological home to many species of plants and animals. The Joshua tree is evident everywhere. This tall spiny plant can grow up to 40 feet with clusters of cream colored flowers that occur in winter months. It is not actually a tree but a variety of the yucca plant. It’s name was given to the plant by a group of Mormons who settled in the area and thought that the many “arms” of the plant reminded them of Joshua raising his hands toward God.
Because this is a desert environment, the dry sandy soil gives life to spiny plants and slithery creatures who have adapted to little water, summer temperatures above 100 degrees and relentless sun. This seemingly harsh area is actually fragile. The threat to the survival of this delicate environment is due to human interference.
The first impression of the park is how different it is from a geological perspective. There are huge boulders and rock piles everywhere. It looked as if giant dump trucks emptied loads of rocks at a construction site, a very large construction site. The geology of this area is the result of millions of years of magma crystallizing below the earth’s surface. Earthquakes cracked the rock bringing it closer to the surface. Groundwater and wind have shaped the rocks and boulders into their unusual forms.
We hiked the Hidden Valley Trail. It is a loop trail that wound up and around huge boulders. Once we climbed over several boulders the trail opened up to a valley that was a cattle rustlers hideout. The valley was filled with scrubby prickly plants and surrounded by huge rock formations with rock climbers testing their skills. The hour long trail walk was a great adventure. We climbed over boulders, peeked through holes in the rocks and watched out for snakes.
Following our hike we drove to Keys View. At an elevation of 5,185 feet the views of the valley, mountains and desert we could got a peek of the San Andreas fault below. There was a heavy haze over the valley so the view was not as clear as expected.
The stark raw beauty of this desert area is a reminder that nature is a reflection of who we are as a human race, Will we continue to preserve this environment for future generations? What is the balance between conservation and development? What is worth saving; what is worth fighting for?
Wednesday, January 17, 2018
Jan. 16-17. Tuscon to California
Jan. 16
Tombstone, AZ
We took a day trip to Tombstone, AZ an historic city in Cochise County. It is alive with 1880 stores, merchandise, and cowboys, real ones and actors.(It can be hard to tell the difference). There are stagecoach rides with bandit hold-ups and of course the re-enactment of the OK Corral shoot-out with Doc Holiday and Wyatt Earp, the deputy Sheriff of Pima County and town marshal of Tombstone. The sidewalks are wooden just as they were back in the late 1800. The stores sold everything western from saddles, to cowboy hats, buckles and belts. The stagecoach ride through town was a fun way to see the homes of the notorious cowboys of the Wild West. When I about 7 my dad bought me a pair of red cowgirl boots and to this day they were one of the best gifts he got for me. I was Annie Oakley for a long time whenever I wore those boots. Later, when I was teaching, I was in a play and had the part of Annie Oakley’s sister in Annie Get Your Gun. Tombstone brought back so many good memories of childhood games.
The Pima Air and Space Museum is another Tuscon attraction that we visited. It is a private museum of hundreds of airplanes from around the world. It also houses many planes from World War II, Korean War and Vietnam War. There was a display of women in flight that was particular interesting. Many more women have made their mark in flying history than I had ever been aware of.
Jan. 17,
We left Tuscon, Arizona in a very cold windstorm heading toward California. The drive across south west Arizon and into California is desert land. As we drove toward the mountains, we could see an immense haze that appeared to be a fog. It was a windstorm blowing up sand. Thankfully, it was not a heavy sandstorm. We drove through the Imperial Desert, an area of huge sand dunes. We arrived in El Centro California, checked into a nice RV park with a heated pool. What a treat to swim in warm water after traveling in dust and sand for way too many days.
We plan to drive to Indio tomorrow and spend a few days at Joshua Tree National Park. On the 23rd we will visit our former neighbors in Florida who have moved to Temecula, CA. They have told us that Temecula is known for its wineries!
Tombstone, AZ
We took a day trip to Tombstone, AZ an historic city in Cochise County. It is alive with 1880 stores, merchandise, and cowboys, real ones and actors.(It can be hard to tell the difference). There are stagecoach rides with bandit hold-ups and of course the re-enactment of the OK Corral shoot-out with Doc Holiday and Wyatt Earp, the deputy Sheriff of Pima County and town marshal of Tombstone. The sidewalks are wooden just as they were back in the late 1800. The stores sold everything western from saddles, to cowboy hats, buckles and belts. The stagecoach ride through town was a fun way to see the homes of the notorious cowboys of the Wild West. When I about 7 my dad bought me a pair of red cowgirl boots and to this day they were one of the best gifts he got for me. I was Annie Oakley for a long time whenever I wore those boots. Later, when I was teaching, I was in a play and had the part of Annie Oakley’s sister in Annie Get Your Gun. Tombstone brought back so many good memories of childhood games.
The Pima Air and Space Museum is another Tuscon attraction that we visited. It is a private museum of hundreds of airplanes from around the world. It also houses many planes from World War II, Korean War and Vietnam War. There was a display of women in flight that was particular interesting. Many more women have made their mark in flying history than I had ever been aware of.
Jan. 17,
We left Tuscon, Arizona in a very cold windstorm heading toward California. The drive across south west Arizon and into California is desert land. As we drove toward the mountains, we could see an immense haze that appeared to be a fog. It was a windstorm blowing up sand. Thankfully, it was not a heavy sandstorm. We drove through the Imperial Desert, an area of huge sand dunes. We arrived in El Centro California, checked into a nice RV park with a heated pool. What a treat to swim in warm water after traveling in dust and sand for way too many days.
We plan to drive to Indio tomorrow and spend a few days at Joshua Tree National Park. On the 23rd we will visit our former neighbors in Florida who have moved to Temecula, CA. They have told us that Temecula is known for its wineries!
Monday, January 15, 2018
Jan. 13-15 Tuscon, AZ
Jan. 13,
We checked out of our mini estate at the Arroyo Robles in Sedona, packed up the RV and drove to the kennel to pick up Jack. He was over the moon excited to see us. The owner insured us that he was a very good boy all week. He had a nice bath and was smelling good. We missed him too but we were able to do a lot of things in Sedona that we couldn’t have done with a dog. All is well and we are back in traveling mode.
Spending two weeks in Sedona was lovely. It truly is a beautiful area and we will mis it. We were not able to connect with our friends from Great Diamond, the Doyles, because they are in Florida now. Jim was kind enough to give us a great list of things to do and places to see in the area and we took full advantage of his list. Thank you Jim!
The drive to Tuscon from Sedona is a little over 3 hours which is about the maximum time we care to drive in one day. We did a grocery run and found our RV site. It is not as nice as the Sedona RV site but we are only here for a few days and we will be gone most of the day sight seeing so we can put up with a place not as beautiful. Basically, all I care about is that they have clean showers with hot water.
On Sunday morning we visited the Desert Museum. George Gordon had told us to be sure to see it. He was right on. It was an amazing place with two and half miles of desert walkways. It is a natural environment with cacti plants well marked with information about each variety. We listened to a lecture on two venomous creatures that inhabit the area, the Gila monster and the western rattlesnake.
Both animals were placed on display on a large table in close and clear view. The desert environment is a tough one for plants and animals so each has its own distinctive way of protecting itself. The Gila monster is actually quite a beautiful lizard. It has small beady eyes with bright pink or orange with black spots on their skin. It has the appearance of bumps all over its outer skin which are actually bones that are for protection. The venom of a Gila monster is not deadly to a healthy human but their bite is strong and should be professionally cared for. The rattlesnake is a pit viper with a venom that can kill a human if left untreated in about six to forty eight hours. There is an antidote for a rattlesnake bite but it is about $2,000 per vile and one could need up to 20 viles if bitten. Fortunately, there are few deaths from the rattlesnake.
The desert area around Tuscon is very different from the deserts we have been through so far. It has green vegetation and forests of Saguaro cacti. This area is closer to the Sea of Cortez which brings summer rains, giving the plant life much needed water supply. The desert landscape is a harsh one, even here. The soil is sandy and dry but the cacti grow to be very large with incredible long thorns. Hiking through the desert is not my choice; it is easy to get lost, it is hot, the plants are scary and dangerous to get near, and of course the presence of the ever threatening rattlesnakes and other poisonous animals. We were happy to be able to walk the 2 miles through the Desert Museum where we could learn about the flora and fauna of the area without worry of getting lost, touching something poisonous, or passing out from the heat. George was right this was a worthwhile day trip.
We took a drive through the heart of downtown Tuscon and the University. The University has a lovely campus landscaped with trees and green grass. It is centrally located with neighboring restaurants alive with music and laughter. Tuscon is a young person’s city with quiet streets and neighborhoods that are pleasant and walkable.
We checked out of our mini estate at the Arroyo Robles in Sedona, packed up the RV and drove to the kennel to pick up Jack. He was over the moon excited to see us. The owner insured us that he was a very good boy all week. He had a nice bath and was smelling good. We missed him too but we were able to do a lot of things in Sedona that we couldn’t have done with a dog. All is well and we are back in traveling mode.
Spending two weeks in Sedona was lovely. It truly is a beautiful area and we will mis it. We were not able to connect with our friends from Great Diamond, the Doyles, because they are in Florida now. Jim was kind enough to give us a great list of things to do and places to see in the area and we took full advantage of his list. Thank you Jim!
The drive to Tuscon from Sedona is a little over 3 hours which is about the maximum time we care to drive in one day. We did a grocery run and found our RV site. It is not as nice as the Sedona RV site but we are only here for a few days and we will be gone most of the day sight seeing so we can put up with a place not as beautiful. Basically, all I care about is that they have clean showers with hot water.
On Sunday morning we visited the Desert Museum. George Gordon had told us to be sure to see it. He was right on. It was an amazing place with two and half miles of desert walkways. It is a natural environment with cacti plants well marked with information about each variety. We listened to a lecture on two venomous creatures that inhabit the area, the Gila monster and the western rattlesnake.
Both animals were placed on display on a large table in close and clear view. The desert environment is a tough one for plants and animals so each has its own distinctive way of protecting itself. The Gila monster is actually quite a beautiful lizard. It has small beady eyes with bright pink or orange with black spots on their skin. It has the appearance of bumps all over its outer skin which are actually bones that are for protection. The venom of a Gila monster is not deadly to a healthy human but their bite is strong and should be professionally cared for. The rattlesnake is a pit viper with a venom that can kill a human if left untreated in about six to forty eight hours. There is an antidote for a rattlesnake bite but it is about $2,000 per vile and one could need up to 20 viles if bitten. Fortunately, there are few deaths from the rattlesnake.
The desert area around Tuscon is very different from the deserts we have been through so far. It has green vegetation and forests of Saguaro cacti. This area is closer to the Sea of Cortez which brings summer rains, giving the plant life much needed water supply. The desert landscape is a harsh one, even here. The soil is sandy and dry but the cacti grow to be very large with incredible long thorns. Hiking through the desert is not my choice; it is easy to get lost, it is hot, the plants are scary and dangerous to get near, and of course the presence of the ever threatening rattlesnakes and other poisonous animals. We were happy to be able to walk the 2 miles through the Desert Museum where we could learn about the flora and fauna of the area without worry of getting lost, touching something poisonous, or passing out from the heat. George was right this was a worthwhile day trip.
We took a drive through the heart of downtown Tuscon and the University. The University has a lovely campus landscaped with trees and green grass. It is centrally located with neighboring restaurants alive with music and laughter. Tuscon is a young person’s city with quiet streets and neighborhoods that are pleasant and walkable.
Friday, January 12, 2018
Sedona: Jan. 6-13 The Condo
Jan.6-13
This week has been spent at the Arroyo Robles Condos in the center of Sedona. We have taken a break from the RV and enjoyed a 2 bedroom condo with adobe like fireplaces in the living room and bedroom. It feels incredibly spacious with canyon views from every window.
We have had lovely private moments including special dinners, swimming in the heated pool and a 90 minute Ayurvedic massage. The specially formulated hot oils soaked immediately into our dry cracked skin.
We hiked the trails at the West Fork, the Airport and Fay Canyon. Each trail is different but all have exceeded our expectations in beauty and adventure. At the beginning of the week the trails were powdery dry since it hadn’t rained in months here. Our shoes and clothing were covered with a layer of red clay dust by the end of each walk. The giant boulders were covered with the dust particles and the creeks and washes were empty leaving only bedrock. The green foliage of the riparian forests along Oak Creek were stressed and shriveled due to the lack of rain.
Finally, late Tuesday night a magnificent thunderstorm brought torrential rains into the city and surrounding canyons. Intense lightening lit up the night sky followed by thunder that echoed through the canyon walls. The rain continued throughout the day on Wednesday and washed the city clean. It also washed away the dust and grime from our van. The RV had been covered with bird droppings for the past two months. The birds had been eating red berries so there was an amazing display of red poop all over our van.
On Thursday, we hiked the Fay Canyon Trail. The rain had transformed the beginning of the trail from a dry dusty path to a thick red muddy one. It is a wonder how just a little bit of rain will wake up nature. The green foliage is now plump and vibrant. The air is clear and refreshing. The washes, although not flowing, had remaining pools of water left from the day before. As we ascended up the trail toward the canyon wall, the red thick mud had hardened making the trek easier. The tall pines and firs gave off their signature scents, thankful for the drink water.
The Navajo’s say “Water is Life” and this rainfall has reminded me of the precious resource water truly is. All of nature responds positively to water. It flows like the life blood through the veins of plants and animals.
This week has been spent at the Arroyo Robles Condos in the center of Sedona. We have taken a break from the RV and enjoyed a 2 bedroom condo with adobe like fireplaces in the living room and bedroom. It feels incredibly spacious with canyon views from every window.
We have had lovely private moments including special dinners, swimming in the heated pool and a 90 minute Ayurvedic massage. The specially formulated hot oils soaked immediately into our dry cracked skin.
We hiked the trails at the West Fork, the Airport and Fay Canyon. Each trail is different but all have exceeded our expectations in beauty and adventure. At the beginning of the week the trails were powdery dry since it hadn’t rained in months here. Our shoes and clothing were covered with a layer of red clay dust by the end of each walk. The giant boulders were covered with the dust particles and the creeks and washes were empty leaving only bedrock. The green foliage of the riparian forests along Oak Creek were stressed and shriveled due to the lack of rain.
Finally, late Tuesday night a magnificent thunderstorm brought torrential rains into the city and surrounding canyons. Intense lightening lit up the night sky followed by thunder that echoed through the canyon walls. The rain continued throughout the day on Wednesday and washed the city clean. It also washed away the dust and grime from our van. The RV had been covered with bird droppings for the past two months. The birds had been eating red berries so there was an amazing display of red poop all over our van.
On Thursday, we hiked the Fay Canyon Trail. The rain had transformed the beginning of the trail from a dry dusty path to a thick red muddy one. It is a wonder how just a little bit of rain will wake up nature. The green foliage is now plump and vibrant. The air is clear and refreshing. The washes, although not flowing, had remaining pools of water left from the day before. As we ascended up the trail toward the canyon wall, the red thick mud had hardened making the trek easier. The tall pines and firs gave off their signature scents, thankful for the drink water.
The Navajo’s say “Water is Life” and this rainfall has reminded me of the precious resource water truly is. All of nature responds positively to water. It flows like the life blood through the veins of plants and animals.
Saturday, January 6, 2018
Jan. 5-6. Hiking
Jan. 5
Mark, Jack and I hiked Soldiers Pass Trail today. It wasn’t too difficult so we were able to climb all around the boulders once again. The trails here are amazing. Some are more difficult than others in that they ascend upwards of 400 feet with narrow paths and serious drop offs. We have chosen the less difficult trails to climb but the views are still spectacular. The high cliffs of the Red Rocks surround the city giving magnificent views no matter where you look. Hiking the trails up into the National Park area gave us a birds eye view of Sedona below. The architecture of Sedona is simple and structured to fit into the landscape. There are no tall buildings to visually compete with the cliffs; homes and businesses are a maximum of two stories and usually built into the rock. The architectural styles are adobe or modern with a lot of glass. The weather here is relatively mild so the use of glass and stone makes for outstanding structures. The colors of the homes also fit into the colors of the rocks surrounding the city, reds, oranges, and greys. The blending of the man made architecture with the natural rock formations creates an atmosphere of peace and calm.
We hiked on to the airport trail which is where a major vortex is located. The energy fields evidently spin around in this area. Not sure if I felt the energy but the view was great!
I have to admit that I gave in and bought three crystals. I chose ones that should aid meditation and open up all chakras. The salesman at the store assured me that there is a positive energy in crystals and that they enhance a feeling of positivity and peacefulness. I have nothing to lose!
Jan. 6
This morning we cleaned out the RV, packed up and moved out of Rancho Sedona RV park. Admittedly, it has been one of the prettiest parks we have been to date, the views, the privacy, the sound of running water from the creek behind our van all added up to a very pleasant stay. For the next week we will be at a resort condo in Sedona. I am looking forward to a massage and a long soaking bath. We plan to continue to hike in the area and enjoy the rest of what Sedona has to offer, perhaps a night out at Elote restaurant. Since this is Mark’s idea of “marriage insurance”, I am not going to blog about this week. The past two months have been wonderful and the “marriage insurance” idea is not really needed, just the spa part!!!
Mark, Jack and I hiked Soldiers Pass Trail today. It wasn’t too difficult so we were able to climb all around the boulders once again. The trails here are amazing. Some are more difficult than others in that they ascend upwards of 400 feet with narrow paths and serious drop offs. We have chosen the less difficult trails to climb but the views are still spectacular. The high cliffs of the Red Rocks surround the city giving magnificent views no matter where you look. Hiking the trails up into the National Park area gave us a birds eye view of Sedona below. The architecture of Sedona is simple and structured to fit into the landscape. There are no tall buildings to visually compete with the cliffs; homes and businesses are a maximum of two stories and usually built into the rock. The architectural styles are adobe or modern with a lot of glass. The weather here is relatively mild so the use of glass and stone makes for outstanding structures. The colors of the homes also fit into the colors of the rocks surrounding the city, reds, oranges, and greys. The blending of the man made architecture with the natural rock formations creates an atmosphere of peace and calm.
We hiked on to the airport trail which is where a major vortex is located. The energy fields evidently spin around in this area. Not sure if I felt the energy but the view was great!
I have to admit that I gave in and bought three crystals. I chose ones that should aid meditation and open up all chakras. The salesman at the store assured me that there is a positive energy in crystals and that they enhance a feeling of positivity and peacefulness. I have nothing to lose!
Jan. 6
This morning we cleaned out the RV, packed up and moved out of Rancho Sedona RV park. Admittedly, it has been one of the prettiest parks we have been to date, the views, the privacy, the sound of running water from the creek behind our van all added up to a very pleasant stay. For the next week we will be at a resort condo in Sedona. I am looking forward to a massage and a long soaking bath. We plan to continue to hike in the area and enjoy the rest of what Sedona has to offer, perhaps a night out at Elote restaurant. Since this is Mark’s idea of “marriage insurance”, I am not going to blog about this week. The past two months have been wonderful and the “marriage insurance” idea is not really needed, just the spa part!!!
Wednesday, January 3, 2018
Jan. 3 2018. Pink Jeep and Boulder Climbing
Jan. 3, 2018
Yesterday we scheduled a two hour Pink Jeep ride up into the mountains of the Coconino National Forest and the Red Rock area of Sedona. The Pink Jeeps are a local tourist adventure taking people into the rugged hills that surround the city. We chose the Broken Arrow tour which took us off road and into the back country. The drive ascended to about 4,000 feet up terrain that was rocky and dusty. Our guide drove over boulders and rock faces that bounced us around in the open air Jeep. We slid from side to side and came close to cliff sides that dropped thousands of feet. The stop that allowed us to boulder climb was exhilarating. It was like standing at the edge of the earth looking at the beginning of time. These rocks have been around for thousands of years with layers of colors indicating the formation of various periods in geologic time. Our guide pointed out the variety in vegetation along the way, pinion trees, agave cactus, and brush juniper. I noticed several large and beautiful juniper trees growing between two rocks with seemingly no soil or water to nourish them. The difficult surroundings do not prevent them from becoming strong hardy trees. They are surviving with little help from nature; a metaphor for the power of determination, resilence and inner strength.
Since, we arrived back at our RV Park too late to cook dinner, Mark and I walked to town for a quick meal at the Secret Garden. We forgot our flashlights so the walk home was a bit sketchy in the dark.
The RV needed to be cleaned out and reorganized so we decided to once again go through all of our cabinets and get rid of the things that we weren’t using or would not need. It turned out there was quite a lot so we packed it all up and sent it back to Kate. She should receive it in about a week. It has been two months on the road and we are getting by with very little clothing. It is quite freeing actually, not be needing so much stuff. Just to be clear, we do laundry every other day so our clothes are relatively clean.
Today was a day off from touring and just getting the RV in order and taking care of personal things like cleaning the RV, food shopping, banking and laundry. The RV park is a comfortable and private location for us and we are truly enjoying our stay here.
Yesterday we scheduled a two hour Pink Jeep ride up into the mountains of the Coconino National Forest and the Red Rock area of Sedona. The Pink Jeeps are a local tourist adventure taking people into the rugged hills that surround the city. We chose the Broken Arrow tour which took us off road and into the back country. The drive ascended to about 4,000 feet up terrain that was rocky and dusty. Our guide drove over boulders and rock faces that bounced us around in the open air Jeep. We slid from side to side and came close to cliff sides that dropped thousands of feet. The stop that allowed us to boulder climb was exhilarating. It was like standing at the edge of the earth looking at the beginning of time. These rocks have been around for thousands of years with layers of colors indicating the formation of various periods in geologic time. Our guide pointed out the variety in vegetation along the way, pinion trees, agave cactus, and brush juniper. I noticed several large and beautiful juniper trees growing between two rocks with seemingly no soil or water to nourish them. The difficult surroundings do not prevent them from becoming strong hardy trees. They are surviving with little help from nature; a metaphor for the power of determination, resilence and inner strength.
Since, we arrived back at our RV Park too late to cook dinner, Mark and I walked to town for a quick meal at the Secret Garden. We forgot our flashlights so the walk home was a bit sketchy in the dark.
The RV needed to be cleaned out and reorganized so we decided to once again go through all of our cabinets and get rid of the things that we weren’t using or would not need. It turned out there was quite a lot so we packed it all up and sent it back to Kate. She should receive it in about a week. It has been two months on the road and we are getting by with very little clothing. It is quite freeing actually, not be needing so much stuff. Just to be clear, we do laundry every other day so our clothes are relatively clean.
Today was a day off from touring and just getting the RV in order and taking care of personal things like cleaning the RV, food shopping, banking and laundry. The RV park is a comfortable and private location for us and we are truly enjoying our stay here.
Tuesday, January 2, 2018
JANUARY 2: Sedona, AZ: Shopping and Chapel of the Holy Cross
Jan. 2, 2018
Sedona is located just south of Flagstaff, Arizona. The city is nestled in between red rock canyons that provide spectacular views from every angle. Oak Creek winds its way through the valley providing green vegetation to flourish. The greenery is a welcome site for us. We have been in desert lands where the brown, dusty landscape where foreground and background blend into continuous open spaces.
Rancho Sedona RV park is a short 10 minute walk to the shops in the western section of Sedona. The first night we were here we walked to town for dinner at Creekside Cafe. We had been told that this is a very dog friendly city and to be sure to take Jack with us everywhere. The restaurant was able to seat us outside on the balcony overlooking Oak Creek and the red canyons. When the menus arrived there was a special menu for Jack! We were served water as well as Jack in a special silver dog bowl. We ordered Steak Tartare for Jack. It arrived in another silver bowl with a raw egg on top. This was a first for us. Jack certainly was a happy guy. With such great service, he even left a tip!
After dinner we walked around Tllaquepaque, an open air arts and crafts village. It was a warm night and the white Christmas lights were still on. The shops featured art works reflecting the colors and scenery of the area. Kuivato Glass Gallery had glass sculptures that twisted and turned with yellows, reds and oranges giving movement to the blown glass. In the Rowe Fine Art gallery, local artists captured the scenery in oils and water-colors. Some were realistic attempts at capturing the landscape in a two dimensional format while others were impressionistic or modern. They were all extraordinary and very high priced. Other interesting shops were particular to the area, Echo of the Dreamer Gallery, The Turquoise Tortoise Gallery and the Honshin Fine Art, Gallery of the Ascending Spirit, and Gallery of Wholeness, Harmony and Radiance.
We ended our evening walk to a Navaho jewelry gallery where Mark bought me a beautiful silver and torquioise bracelet. (He also bought Sophie and Kate Birthday gifts, and two more bracelets for me the next day!!!)
Evidently there are vorticies here. There is one at Boynton Canyon, Cathedral Rock and the Airport Vortex. There may be more but these seem to be the most popular. They are believed to be energy fields. Whether or not this is a scientific fact or not, there is certainly a peaceful feeling here. Perhaps, it is from the altitude, or the climate, or the water that flows through the canyon, or the voticies, a great marketing plan or all of the above. Whatever, Sedona is a warm, welcoming, peaceful city.
Chapel of the Holy Cross is located just east of the city. It is a Roman Catholic chapel that was built high on a hill and built into the red rocks with views of the canyons form inside the chapel through glass windows on either side of the chapel. Marguerite Brunswig Staude, was a sculptor who captured the attention of Frank Lloyd Wright back in the 30’s. Together with architects Richard Hein August Strotz the projet was completed in l956. The use of glass captures the light from the entrance way and continues through the chapel passing over and through the red votives located at the front of the altar. The glass from behind the altar faces outward to the canyons and is framed around a massive stone cross that seemingly is built into the side of the canyon. The walk up to the chapel is a winding circular one that provides a meditative walk through simple modern sculpultures and water-scapes. Typical of the Wright style the chapel is timeless in its design, modern yet classic.
Sedona is located just south of Flagstaff, Arizona. The city is nestled in between red rock canyons that provide spectacular views from every angle. Oak Creek winds its way through the valley providing green vegetation to flourish. The greenery is a welcome site for us. We have been in desert lands where the brown, dusty landscape where foreground and background blend into continuous open spaces.
Rancho Sedona RV park is a short 10 minute walk to the shops in the western section of Sedona. The first night we were here we walked to town for dinner at Creekside Cafe. We had been told that this is a very dog friendly city and to be sure to take Jack with us everywhere. The restaurant was able to seat us outside on the balcony overlooking Oak Creek and the red canyons. When the menus arrived there was a special menu for Jack! We were served water as well as Jack in a special silver dog bowl. We ordered Steak Tartare for Jack. It arrived in another silver bowl with a raw egg on top. This was a first for us. Jack certainly was a happy guy. With such great service, he even left a tip!
After dinner we walked around Tllaquepaque, an open air arts and crafts village. It was a warm night and the white Christmas lights were still on. The shops featured art works reflecting the colors and scenery of the area. Kuivato Glass Gallery had glass sculptures that twisted and turned with yellows, reds and oranges giving movement to the blown glass. In the Rowe Fine Art gallery, local artists captured the scenery in oils and water-colors. Some were realistic attempts at capturing the landscape in a two dimensional format while others were impressionistic or modern. They were all extraordinary and very high priced. Other interesting shops were particular to the area, Echo of the Dreamer Gallery, The Turquoise Tortoise Gallery and the Honshin Fine Art, Gallery of the Ascending Spirit, and Gallery of Wholeness, Harmony and Radiance.
We ended our evening walk to a Navaho jewelry gallery where Mark bought me a beautiful silver and torquioise bracelet. (He also bought Sophie and Kate Birthday gifts, and two more bracelets for me the next day!!!)
Evidently there are vorticies here. There is one at Boynton Canyon, Cathedral Rock and the Airport Vortex. There may be more but these seem to be the most popular. They are believed to be energy fields. Whether or not this is a scientific fact or not, there is certainly a peaceful feeling here. Perhaps, it is from the altitude, or the climate, or the water that flows through the canyon, or the voticies, a great marketing plan or all of the above. Whatever, Sedona is a warm, welcoming, peaceful city.
Chapel of the Holy Cross is located just east of the city. It is a Roman Catholic chapel that was built high on a hill and built into the red rocks with views of the canyons form inside the chapel through glass windows on either side of the chapel. Marguerite Brunswig Staude, was a sculptor who captured the attention of Frank Lloyd Wright back in the 30’s. Together with architects Richard Hein August Strotz the projet was completed in l956. The use of glass captures the light from the entrance way and continues through the chapel passing over and through the red votives located at the front of the altar. The glass from behind the altar faces outward to the canyons and is framed around a massive stone cross that seemingly is built into the side of the canyon. The walk up to the chapel is a winding circular one that provides a meditative walk through simple modern sculpultures and water-scapes. Typical of the Wright style the chapel is timeless in its design, modern yet classic.
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