From the time we left Dallas and just outside of Fort Worth, Texas the landscape flattens out and the roads become long and straight. The western desert land is miles of open space, flat land, and big sky. The colors are simple, beige with hints of dark green scrub and cactus plants. I am not sure how far one can actually see but it feels like if I stood on my tip toes, I could see the curvature of the earth.
The cactus plants are spiny and short, I need to research the names of some of them. Jack found out how sharp the thorns can be when he decided to take a pee up close to one of them.
We saw deer one evening around dusk just outside of Fort Davis. We were told about a clearing of Cottonwood trees where the deer and sometimes elk would wander around in the open space just before sunset. We did not see elk but a herd of deer made their way into the clearing. We got a beautiful look at these white tail deer.
On a few occasions we spotted Road-Runners on the side of the road, some alive, some not. They are actually very cute with their waddle. It was sad to see a few coyotes that had been hit by cars.
The desert truly is its own beauty and part of the beauty, for me, is the silence. The quietness at night is remarkable. I feel very small in the vastness of space that is all around. Tonight the sky is dark with a few clouds so the stars are not all that visible but when we do see the entire night sky is sparkling with crystals.
One of the sights we did not encounter was the so called Marfa Lights. Evidently, at some times of the year and certain geological conditions the sky around Marfa gives off a light show. It is similar to the northern lights, they say. Some even say it is people from outer space.
On our drive from Texas to New Mexico, the natural landscape does not change much but it is evident how humans are impacting it. The land is now exploding with fracking companies. Huge oil rigs, water pipes and containment facilities are everywhere. Trucks in and out of the sites were busy carrying whatever they are transporting from one location to another. Small motor home facilities were popping up to house the workers. These trailer camps seem to be a modern day version of the coal patch towns of the early 20th century. On a personal note, there is so much wind and sun here, I don’t understand why there aren’t giant wind or solar farms. The energy these companies are using to find gas and oil is unbelievable, especially considering the lack of water here.
The desert space is wide open, simple and flat, ginger colored grassses with dark green cactus dot the land. The desert sky is deep blue with whispy clouds in daylight. The night sky is black with millions of glistening stars. I would venture to guess that we are not alone in this vast universe.
Thursday, November 30, 2017
Carlsbad, New Mexico
Wednesday November 29 & 30, 2017
Carlsbad, New Mexico
Saying good-bye to Libby and John was a bitersweet fairwell. We had a wonderful time with them in Dallas and our travels through the western part of the state in Alpine, Marfa, and Fort Davis. We will miss Libby’s expertise on art and literature, and John’s quips and insights into all things Texas.
Mark and I did have one interesting experience with a couple of “real” Texans. We needed to visit the laundromat in Fort Davis. We aren’t carrying many changes of clothing so we get to see several laundromats along the way. It is actually a great way to talk to the locals and hear their stories. In Fort Davis the laundromat is a small white stucco building with 10 washing machines and 10 dryers. There was only one other couple in there when we arrived and they had been using about 5 of the machines. We didn’t mind because we only neede one.
“Where are y’all from?” The man dressed in Texas style shirt, blue jeans, and a hand carved leather belt with a Texas hat, asked.
“Maine.”
“I met someone from Vermont once. I think it’s near there, right.”
“Yes, it is”
“Is this your first time in west Texas?”
“It is”
“Well, let me tell you about west Texas. I grew up on a farm south of here, right on the Mexican border. My family had been there for years. We raised corn, cotton, carrots, and all kinds of other vegetables. But I got old and tired so I retired up here a bit farther north. Too many Mexicans coming across the border, about 11 million a day, I’d say. Those wet-backs bring nothing good to the United States. They come with their babies and drugs. They just want a free ride here. That wall should have been built a long time ago. Nothing but bad comes from the other side of the border.”
The man’s wife interrupts him: “Those that come here bring babies, born out of wedlock. God is watching them and there will be hell to pay. He is watching, you know. That wall needs to built fast. That other president just let them all come in to this country and gave them citizenship.”
Fortunately, Jack was with us and he needed to pee. Quick excuse to take the dog for a walk.
“So nice to meet you both.” We left the laundromat.
Mark and I provisioned the RV for our 2 hour drive to Carlsbad New Mexico and Brantley Lake State Park. The landscape was flat and very desolate but not in like the rest of trip through Texas. The desert has it’s own beauty. We were very much alone at the camp site with high winds blowing all night. I got a text from Mike letting us know that we are now in UFO country. Awesome! The darkness and the complete silence of the landscape is actually quite inspirational.
Mark was excited to visit the Carlsbad Caves. After Mammoth, I was not interested at all. He took a two hour tour while Jack and I and spent time outside the cave. I had a great conversation with my good friend Agnes. We had pretty good reception, so we were able to catch up on family events.
Carlsbad, New Mexico
Saying good-bye to Libby and John was a bitersweet fairwell. We had a wonderful time with them in Dallas and our travels through the western part of the state in Alpine, Marfa, and Fort Davis. We will miss Libby’s expertise on art and literature, and John’s quips and insights into all things Texas.
Mark and I did have one interesting experience with a couple of “real” Texans. We needed to visit the laundromat in Fort Davis. We aren’t carrying many changes of clothing so we get to see several laundromats along the way. It is actually a great way to talk to the locals and hear their stories. In Fort Davis the laundromat is a small white stucco building with 10 washing machines and 10 dryers. There was only one other couple in there when we arrived and they had been using about 5 of the machines. We didn’t mind because we only neede one.
“Where are y’all from?” The man dressed in Texas style shirt, blue jeans, and a hand carved leather belt with a Texas hat, asked.
“Maine.”
“I met someone from Vermont once. I think it’s near there, right.”
“Yes, it is”
“Is this your first time in west Texas?”
“It is”
“Well, let me tell you about west Texas. I grew up on a farm south of here, right on the Mexican border. My family had been there for years. We raised corn, cotton, carrots, and all kinds of other vegetables. But I got old and tired so I retired up here a bit farther north. Too many Mexicans coming across the border, about 11 million a day, I’d say. Those wet-backs bring nothing good to the United States. They come with their babies and drugs. They just want a free ride here. That wall should have been built a long time ago. Nothing but bad comes from the other side of the border.”
The man’s wife interrupts him: “Those that come here bring babies, born out of wedlock. God is watching them and there will be hell to pay. He is watching, you know. That wall needs to built fast. That other president just let them all come in to this country and gave them citizenship.”
Fortunately, Jack was with us and he needed to pee. Quick excuse to take the dog for a walk.
“So nice to meet you both.” We left the laundromat.
Mark and I provisioned the RV for our 2 hour drive to Carlsbad New Mexico and Brantley Lake State Park. The landscape was flat and very desolate but not in like the rest of trip through Texas. The desert has it’s own beauty. We were very much alone at the camp site with high winds blowing all night. I got a text from Mike letting us know that we are now in UFO country. Awesome! The darkness and the complete silence of the landscape is actually quite inspirational.
Mark was excited to visit the Carlsbad Caves. After Mammoth, I was not interested at all. He took a two hour tour while Jack and I and spent time outside the cave. I had a great conversation with my good friend Agnes. We had pretty good reception, so we were able to catch up on family events.
Fort Davis, TX
November 27, 28, 2017
Fort Davis is a classic western Texas town with friendly people, the grocery store doubling as a sandwich shop and the drug store with its perfect 1950 soda fountain area with music to match. The one Main Street in town was about 3 blocks long with no traffic.
The Limpia Hotel was our home for two days. We shared a condo-like 2 bedroom suite with kitchen, dining room, and 2 baths. Our bathroom had the old fashioned claw footed bath tub, meant for smaller folks back in the day. In the morning we went to the drug store for breakfast. It was Texas style: two eggs, 3 pancakes, hash browns, and bacon or saugage. Mighty good!!
The town is named for the Fort that is located just outside of the town. Fort Davis is a United States National Historic Site. It was established in 1961 to protect one of the best remaining examples of United States Army Fort in the southwestern U.S.
The Fort was originally established in 1854 and has been slowly renovated with some of the buildings staged to show what life was like at the fort in the mid to late 1800’s. The fort was designed “to protect emigrants, mail coaches and freight wagons on the trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahua Trail, and to control activities on the southern stem of the Great Comanche War Trail.”
One important historical aspect of the fort was the activity of African Americans in the West and in the military. The 24th and 25th US Infantry regiments and the 9th and 10th Cavalry regiments, were all-black regiments known as the buffalo soldiers. Henry Ossian Flipper was an American soldier and former slave. He was the first African American to graduate from the United States Military Academy at West Point in 1877. He was the first nonwhite officer to lead buffalo soldiers of the 10th Cavalry. He was met with constant racial injustices and was court martialed and dismissed from the US Army. In 1994 his descendants demanded a review of his court martial and he, posthumously was pardoned by President Bill Clinton in 1999.
Day 2
Libby had arranged a full day of activities at the McDonald Observatory about 30 minutes from Fort Davis. She scheduled a 2 hour tour in the morning then a twilight lecture in the early evening followed by a Star Party at night. What an incredible day!
The Observatory is part of the University of Texas at Austin, housing two incredible telescopes. The Harlan Smith Telescope is a 107” and the Hobby-Eberly Telescope, 360”. Two magnificent pieces of equipment meant to observe the stars, and planets. The Hobby-Eberly Telescope is designed specifically for spectroscopy, the separation of light into its various colors which is used to decode distant galaxies, exploding stars, black holes and uncovering the mystery of dark energy.
Astronomical Science is clearly way beyond my comprehension, however, just to see the magnificent structures was awe inspiring. Astronomers from all over the world schedule time here at the observatory to collect data and search the night skies.
When we returned for the evening events, the wind had picked up dramatically and the skies were just a bit cloudy but the Star Party was still fabulous. We walked around the observatory and got to look through four telescopes that had been set for us on specific sightings. The moon was the most dramatic. It appeared as a Waxing Gibbous form with the crater, Copernicus, clearly visible. Another telescope showed twin stars, one blue and one yellow. I can’t remember what they were called but the color was intense. Although the weather was windy and cold at 4,000 ft, the experience of being at the top of the mountain and seeing what the naked eye could never see was amazing.
Fort Davis is a classic western Texas town with friendly people, the grocery store doubling as a sandwich shop and the drug store with its perfect 1950 soda fountain area with music to match. The one Main Street in town was about 3 blocks long with no traffic.
The Limpia Hotel was our home for two days. We shared a condo-like 2 bedroom suite with kitchen, dining room, and 2 baths. Our bathroom had the old fashioned claw footed bath tub, meant for smaller folks back in the day. In the morning we went to the drug store for breakfast. It was Texas style: two eggs, 3 pancakes, hash browns, and bacon or saugage. Mighty good!!
The town is named for the Fort that is located just outside of the town. Fort Davis is a United States National Historic Site. It was established in 1961 to protect one of the best remaining examples of United States Army Fort in the southwestern U.S.
The Fort was originally established in 1854 and has been slowly renovated with some of the buildings staged to show what life was like at the fort in the mid to late 1800’s. The fort was designed “to protect emigrants, mail coaches and freight wagons on the trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahua Trail, and to control activities on the southern stem of the Great Comanche War Trail.”
One important historical aspect of the fort was the activity of African Americans in the West and in the military. The 24th and 25th US Infantry regiments and the 9th and 10th Cavalry regiments, were all-black regiments known as the buffalo soldiers. Henry Ossian Flipper was an American soldier and former slave. He was the first African American to graduate from the United States Military Academy at West Point in 1877. He was the first nonwhite officer to lead buffalo soldiers of the 10th Cavalry. He was met with constant racial injustices and was court martialed and dismissed from the US Army. In 1994 his descendants demanded a review of his court martial and he, posthumously was pardoned by President Bill Clinton in 1999.
Day 2
Libby had arranged a full day of activities at the McDonald Observatory about 30 minutes from Fort Davis. She scheduled a 2 hour tour in the morning then a twilight lecture in the early evening followed by a Star Party at night. What an incredible day!
The Observatory is part of the University of Texas at Austin, housing two incredible telescopes. The Harlan Smith Telescope is a 107” and the Hobby-Eberly Telescope, 360”. Two magnificent pieces of equipment meant to observe the stars, and planets. The Hobby-Eberly Telescope is designed specifically for spectroscopy, the separation of light into its various colors which is used to decode distant galaxies, exploding stars, black holes and uncovering the mystery of dark energy.
Astronomical Science is clearly way beyond my comprehension, however, just to see the magnificent structures was awe inspiring. Astronomers from all over the world schedule time here at the observatory to collect data and search the night skies.
When we returned for the evening events, the wind had picked up dramatically and the skies were just a bit cloudy but the Star Party was still fabulous. We walked around the observatory and got to look through four telescopes that had been set for us on specific sightings. The moon was the most dramatic. It appeared as a Waxing Gibbous form with the crater, Copernicus, clearly visible. Another telescope showed twin stars, one blue and one yellow. I can’t remember what they were called but the color was intense. Although the weather was windy and cold at 4,000 ft, the experience of being at the top of the mountain and seeing what the naked eye could never see was amazing.
Marfa, TX
Sunday, November 26, 2017
Marfa, Texas is the town of Donald Judd. He was an American artist know for his minimalist style. His work is adequately displayed at the Chinati Foundation here in town. One expression of his works is a collection of large cement open ended squares purposefully placed to offer symmetry with each other and the shadows they create. To me, his work is the ultimate example of form no function. There was a simplistic beauty in his work as it was displayed in the field outside of the Foundation’s building. As the sun moves across the sculptures, geometric shadows form for short periods of time changing the optics of the sculptures. Other buildings there housed his metal works which were equally minimal in their design and structure.
Due to the art of Donald Judd, Marfa, located in west Texas, is now known as an artists hub. Many people from New York, who are interested in this style of art visit here. The art actually fits the landscape in his simplistic style and lack of color. Squares and solid shapes define the structures matching the flat land with its beige grasses and spiny cactus.
The Hotel St. George is an elegant one located on the Main Street. The style of the hotel reflects the art interests of the people who visit, minimalistic design. It had a New York art attitude about it.
We took a drive to see the Prada Store located outside of Valentine. The store is a statement of “you build it; they will come”. It is an art display of shoes in a store window. People come from all over to take photos. Commercialism at its best!
The Cochineal Restaurant was a delightful place for dinner. It served small plates with wonderful desserts. (Cochineal is a small insect used for dying fabrics red)
It is such a pleasure traveling with Libby and John. Libby is a fountain of knowledge and John is full of fun with hysterical comments along the way.
Marfa is also know for the Marfa lights which we did not see due to overcast.
Marfa, Texas is the town of Donald Judd. He was an American artist know for his minimalist style. His work is adequately displayed at the Chinati Foundation here in town. One expression of his works is a collection of large cement open ended squares purposefully placed to offer symmetry with each other and the shadows they create. To me, his work is the ultimate example of form no function. There was a simplistic beauty in his work as it was displayed in the field outside of the Foundation’s building. As the sun moves across the sculptures, geometric shadows form for short periods of time changing the optics of the sculptures. Other buildings there housed his metal works which were equally minimal in their design and structure.
Due to the art of Donald Judd, Marfa, located in west Texas, is now known as an artists hub. Many people from New York, who are interested in this style of art visit here. The art actually fits the landscape in his simplistic style and lack of color. Squares and solid shapes define the structures matching the flat land with its beige grasses and spiny cactus.
The Hotel St. George is an elegant one located on the Main Street. The style of the hotel reflects the art interests of the people who visit, minimalistic design. It had a New York art attitude about it.
We took a drive to see the Prada Store located outside of Valentine. The store is a statement of “you build it; they will come”. It is an art display of shoes in a store window. People come from all over to take photos. Commercialism at its best!
The Cochineal Restaurant was a delightful place for dinner. It served small plates with wonderful desserts. (Cochineal is a small insect used for dying fabrics red)
It is such a pleasure traveling with Libby and John. Libby is a fountain of knowledge and John is full of fun with hysterical comments along the way.
Marfa is also know for the Marfa lights which we did not see due to overcast.
Sunday, November 26, 2017
Alpine, Texas
Saturday, November 25
Texas is a giant of a state. The 7 hour drive from Dallas to Alpine was long and flat. We filled up with gas prior to driving because we weren’t sure how many gas stations were possible along the way. Towns were few and far between.
We started driving at 6:00am and arrived in Alpine around 2:30. John and Libby arrived about an hour ahead of us. John is a a fast driver!
The scrub plants dotted the landscape for as far as the eye could see. Mesquite, cottonwoods, tumble weed, cactus and various grasses were all one could see. It was a continuous sea of beige grasses with dots of dark green bushes. Far off in the distance was a mountain range, Chinati Range. The mountains were brown rock formations lining the horizon.
We had dinner at Reata’s. This was a classic west Texas restaurant, recommended by Bob Mittle, a law partner of Michael Asen’s who evidently lives nearby part time.
Alpine is a small town. There is a stark beauty here with a life style that is hard to imagine. It is set apart from other towns by about 50 to 80 miles. Homes are small, white or beige matching the landscape.
Texas is a giant of a state. The 7 hour drive from Dallas to Alpine was long and flat. We filled up with gas prior to driving because we weren’t sure how many gas stations were possible along the way. Towns were few and far between.
We started driving at 6:00am and arrived in Alpine around 2:30. John and Libby arrived about an hour ahead of us. John is a a fast driver!
The scrub plants dotted the landscape for as far as the eye could see. Mesquite, cottonwoods, tumble weed, cactus and various grasses were all one could see. It was a continuous sea of beige grasses with dots of dark green bushes. Far off in the distance was a mountain range, Chinati Range. The mountains were brown rock formations lining the horizon.
We had dinner at Reata’s. This was a classic west Texas restaurant, recommended by Bob Mittle, a law partner of Michael Asen’s who evidently lives nearby part time.
Alpine is a small town. There is a stark beauty here with a life style that is hard to imagine. It is set apart from other towns by about 50 to 80 miles. Homes are small, white or beige matching the landscape.
Dallas, Texas
Tuesday, November 21
The four hour drive to Dallas was uneventful. Some traffic around Waco due to road construction but otherwise it was fine. We arrived at the Zerner’s around 2:00pm. It was really fun to connect with them. It is such a pleasure to have friends willing to put us up for a few days then travel with us to the far west of Texas.
Their home is absolutely lovely filled with Libby style eclectic art. We had our own suite on the second floor. It felt like a resort compared to the RV space we had been in for the past 20 days.
John had organized a delicious Texas style rib dinner, including roasted cauliflower, kale and avocado salad, and wine! It was perfect.
Wednesday, November 22
The Zerner’s were gracious enough to drive us all around Dallas. What a beautiful city! The neighborhood streets are lined with mature live oaks creating cool canopies over the roads and sidewalks. The homes were beginning to decorate for the Christmas holidays so the spirit of the season was clearly evident.
We planned to have Thanksgiving dinner at Jay and Meridan’s home. Libby was assigned 2 side dishes, roasted Cajun spiced carrots over lentils and sautéed asparagus with harissa sauce, both delicious.
Thursday, November 23
Following a light breakfast, Libby finished preparing the side dishes then we drove to Jay’s house. It was a lovely time with the Zerner family. Lang and his mom along with his mom’s brother and wife and their son were there. A long time friend of Jay’s was also there. Dinner was a classic Thanksgiving meal with a Texas flair. Turkey, ham with side dishes of sweet potatoes with marshmallows, corn bread stuffing, green beans, rolls, and the two sides from Libby. Jordan read a delightful Thanksgiving poem to remind us all why we were celebrating. Following the meal, we collapsed in front of the TV for the Dallas Cowboys game, which they lost. We went back to the John and Libby’s for an early night.
Friday, November 24
This was another touring day of Dallas. We visited the downtown area where President Kenndy was assassinated. It was more moving than I had expected. There is a big green X in the middle of the road where he was hit. President Kennedy was killed when I was a Junior in high school in Bethesda, Maryland. I remember going to the funeral procession in downtown Washington. The streets were lined with people weeping as the horseless carriage passed by. In Dallas, the window where Oswald shot the fatal blow is marked with a white box on the sixth floor of the Book Depository Building. It was surprising to see how close Oswald was.
Central Market was wonderful. It is a food market near the Zerner’s that is filled with every type of food imaginable. We strolled through the market sampling just about everything. Really fun!
We needed to retire early because we were all heading to West Texas at 6:00am.
Dallas was grand and our hosts were the grandest of them all. What a treat to see this beautiful city through the eyes of local residents. Our time in Dallas was special not only to see the city but to spend time with good friends. Thank you Libby and John! Now off to Marfa.
The four hour drive to Dallas was uneventful. Some traffic around Waco due to road construction but otherwise it was fine. We arrived at the Zerner’s around 2:00pm. It was really fun to connect with them. It is such a pleasure to have friends willing to put us up for a few days then travel with us to the far west of Texas.
Their home is absolutely lovely filled with Libby style eclectic art. We had our own suite on the second floor. It felt like a resort compared to the RV space we had been in for the past 20 days.
John had organized a delicious Texas style rib dinner, including roasted cauliflower, kale and avocado salad, and wine! It was perfect.
Wednesday, November 22
The Zerner’s were gracious enough to drive us all around Dallas. What a beautiful city! The neighborhood streets are lined with mature live oaks creating cool canopies over the roads and sidewalks. The homes were beginning to decorate for the Christmas holidays so the spirit of the season was clearly evident.
We planned to have Thanksgiving dinner at Jay and Meridan’s home. Libby was assigned 2 side dishes, roasted Cajun spiced carrots over lentils and sautéed asparagus with harissa sauce, both delicious.
Thursday, November 23
Following a light breakfast, Libby finished preparing the side dishes then we drove to Jay’s house. It was a lovely time with the Zerner family. Lang and his mom along with his mom’s brother and wife and their son were there. A long time friend of Jay’s was also there. Dinner was a classic Thanksgiving meal with a Texas flair. Turkey, ham with side dishes of sweet potatoes with marshmallows, corn bread stuffing, green beans, rolls, and the two sides from Libby. Jordan read a delightful Thanksgiving poem to remind us all why we were celebrating. Following the meal, we collapsed in front of the TV for the Dallas Cowboys game, which they lost. We went back to the John and Libby’s for an early night.
Friday, November 24
This was another touring day of Dallas. We visited the downtown area where President Kenndy was assassinated. It was more moving than I had expected. There is a big green X in the middle of the road where he was hit. President Kennedy was killed when I was a Junior in high school in Bethesda, Maryland. I remember going to the funeral procession in downtown Washington. The streets were lined with people weeping as the horseless carriage passed by. In Dallas, the window where Oswald shot the fatal blow is marked with a white box on the sixth floor of the Book Depository Building. It was surprising to see how close Oswald was.
Central Market was wonderful. It is a food market near the Zerner’s that is filled with every type of food imaginable. We strolled through the market sampling just about everything. Really fun!
We needed to retire early because we were all heading to West Texas at 6:00am.
Dallas was grand and our hosts were the grandest of them all. What a treat to see this beautiful city through the eyes of local residents. Our time in Dallas was special not only to see the city but to spend time with good friends. Thank you Libby and John! Now off to Marfa.
Monday, November 20, 2017
Austin, TX page 2
Monday: November 20
We spent the day strolling around Lady Bird Lake with Jack. The pathway was busy with bikers, runners, walkers and dog walkers. The river was colorful with people in red, blue, yellow and green canoes and kayaks rowing under the bridges of the city. We found a lush dog park for Jack. He had a great time playing with a lovely silver colored Australian Labadoodle. I think he remembers his friends, Annie and Larry.
The river park that runs through the city is a quiet well maintained area for locals. It is a large green space in the middle of the city. The Lady Bird Lake is a reservoir that used to be called Town Lake but was renamed in Lady Bird’s honor a few years back. The tall modern buildings of Austin create a magnificent background to the park.
The people of Austin are very friendly. Anytime we needed information people were willing to help and gave great detail on places to eat or how to get somewhere. We had BBQ for lunch at Black’s BBQ. This was the first BBQ in Texas and it did not dissappoint.
We need to spend some time reorganizing the RV and cleaning it up a bit tonight because we will be spending the next few days in Dallas and then off to Marfa, TX with the Zerner’s.
A relaxing day in all but well worth the walk in the river park. It was beautiful.
We spent the day strolling around Lady Bird Lake with Jack. The pathway was busy with bikers, runners, walkers and dog walkers. The river was colorful with people in red, blue, yellow and green canoes and kayaks rowing under the bridges of the city. We found a lush dog park for Jack. He had a great time playing with a lovely silver colored Australian Labadoodle. I think he remembers his friends, Annie and Larry.
The river park that runs through the city is a quiet well maintained area for locals. It is a large green space in the middle of the city. The Lady Bird Lake is a reservoir that used to be called Town Lake but was renamed in Lady Bird’s honor a few years back. The tall modern buildings of Austin create a magnificent background to the park.
The people of Austin are very friendly. Anytime we needed information people were willing to help and gave great detail on places to eat or how to get somewhere. We had BBQ for lunch at Black’s BBQ. This was the first BBQ in Texas and it did not dissappoint.
We need to spend some time reorganizing the RV and cleaning it up a bit tonight because we will be spending the next few days in Dallas and then off to Marfa, TX with the Zerner’s.
A relaxing day in all but well worth the walk in the river park. It was beautiful.
Sunday, November 19, 2017
Austin, Texas
November 19,
The drive from San Antonio to Austin was about 2 hours. The locals call this the Texas hill country. It is a bit more hilly than the flat land south of here but compared to New England this is not hilly. The grass is beginning to die off and turning a soft ginger color. The live oaks remain leafed out and green. They have a beautiful wide canopy that creates a welcoming shade from the sun. The weather has turned cool, sweater weather, as we say in New England.
Austin is the capital of Texas and for such a giant state the capital city is rather small. The University of Texas is located in the center of the city. It has a lovely “quad” where college students hang out. On this Sunday morning, there were students riding their bikes through the campus area and sitting on the grass reading. There is a lovely view from the campus bell tower to the capitol building with a statue of George Washington looking at the capitol, reminiscent of the Washington Mall. The college neighborhood is very multi-cultural. There are many Asian, Indian and Pakistanian students bringing a delightful “color” to Texas. The motto of the school, “A cultivated mind is the guardian genius of a democracy” was engraved on one of the buildings. It would be my hope that these young cultivated minds offer their genius to guard a greater democracy for their future.
We hung out in a nearby restaurant, Kerbey’s, having coffee and observing the students enjoy their Sunday morning breakfasts. The restaurant was very energized with young people. Large groups of students sat together, laughing and sharing stories with one another. We were clearly the oldest people in the restaurant; could be grandparents to some. It was a pleasant reminder of our own college days in Miami almost 50 years ago. I wonder how our generation will be viewed by these students. Did the cultivated minds of our generation offer our genius to guard a greater democracy?
The drive from San Antonio to Austin was about 2 hours. The locals call this the Texas hill country. It is a bit more hilly than the flat land south of here but compared to New England this is not hilly. The grass is beginning to die off and turning a soft ginger color. The live oaks remain leafed out and green. They have a beautiful wide canopy that creates a welcoming shade from the sun. The weather has turned cool, sweater weather, as we say in New England.
Austin is the capital of Texas and for such a giant state the capital city is rather small. The University of Texas is located in the center of the city. It has a lovely “quad” where college students hang out. On this Sunday morning, there were students riding their bikes through the campus area and sitting on the grass reading. There is a lovely view from the campus bell tower to the capitol building with a statue of George Washington looking at the capitol, reminiscent of the Washington Mall. The college neighborhood is very multi-cultural. There are many Asian, Indian and Pakistanian students bringing a delightful “color” to Texas. The motto of the school, “A cultivated mind is the guardian genius of a democracy” was engraved on one of the buildings. It would be my hope that these young cultivated minds offer their genius to guard a greater democracy for their future.
We hung out in a nearby restaurant, Kerbey’s, having coffee and observing the students enjoy their Sunday morning breakfasts. The restaurant was very energized with young people. Large groups of students sat together, laughing and sharing stories with one another. We were clearly the oldest people in the restaurant; could be grandparents to some. It was a pleasant reminder of our own college days in Miami almost 50 years ago. I wonder how our generation will be viewed by these students. Did the cultivated minds of our generation offer our genius to guard a greater democracy?
Saturday, November 18, 2017
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
November 18,
San Antonio, TX
We spent the morning taking showers and doing laundry which seems to take no less than 2 hours every time we do it. Now that we are all clean as well as our clothes, we went to town.
First stop, the Alamo. it is located right in the center of the city. Hotels, and mega-malls surround the Alamo. It is a bit difficult to imagine what it looked like back in the day of Davy Crockett.
The River Walk was only a block away from The Alamo so we headed over there. It was charming. We walked all around enjoying the ambience of River. We had lunch on the sidewalk (we have Jack) at Landry’s. Mark is on a quest to try out gumbo where ever he goes. Texas Gumbo does not compare to Louisiana gumbo. He should have known that but he wanted to try it out anyway.
The day was a relaxing one aside from the walk around the city. We strolled along the River and thoroughly enjoyed the sites. San Antonio is a beautiful city. It is clean and full of tourists. The restaurants are numerous and looked very delicious. We certainly enjoyed our lunch at Landry’s.
There was a noticeably large number of families with their young Air Force sons and daughters. We never found out exactly why but perhaps it was due to Thanksgiving break. Many of the mothers had pins indicating their pride in their sons or daughters. I must be getting old but the Air Force men and women looked very young.
San Antonio, TX
We spent the morning taking showers and doing laundry which seems to take no less than 2 hours every time we do it. Now that we are all clean as well as our clothes, we went to town.
First stop, the Alamo. it is located right in the center of the city. Hotels, and mega-malls surround the Alamo. It is a bit difficult to imagine what it looked like back in the day of Davy Crockett.
The River Walk was only a block away from The Alamo so we headed over there. It was charming. We walked all around enjoying the ambience of River. We had lunch on the sidewalk (we have Jack) at Landry’s. Mark is on a quest to try out gumbo where ever he goes. Texas Gumbo does not compare to Louisiana gumbo. He should have known that but he wanted to try it out anyway.
The day was a relaxing one aside from the walk around the city. We strolled along the River and thoroughly enjoyed the sites. San Antonio is a beautiful city. It is clean and full of tourists. The restaurants are numerous and looked very delicious. We certainly enjoyed our lunch at Landry’s.
There was a noticeably large number of families with their young Air Force sons and daughters. We never found out exactly why but perhaps it was due to Thanksgiving break. Many of the mothers had pins indicating their pride in their sons or daughters. I must be getting old but the Air Force men and women looked very young.
TEXAS: THE LONE STAR STATE
November 17th
It is a long drive from Lafayette, Louisiana to San Antonio, Texas. We made it in about six hours. The land is flat and this time of year the grass is brown. Scrub trees, live oaks and sugar cane grow throughout this area. We did not plan to stop in Houston so we drove right through rather easily, I might add, as the traffic was light at that time of day. On to San Antonio where we are camping out at the Admiralty RV park. It is about 20 minutes outside of the city. The outskirts of the city are not attractive. There is tremendous construction all around the city. New homes and condos are popping up all over the place. The RV park is very nice but almost everyone has a mega bus-style RV. The sites are very close together. One interesting thing we have noticed is the quietness of the parks. People tend to stay in their own “homes” and not hang out outside very much. We did notice mosquitoes here so after our cookout we didn’t stay outside much longer either.
We did manage to talk to a few people and learned that at this particular site many of the people live here permanently. I spoke with a woman walking her dog. It seems she and her husband have been here for 5 years. I am not sure what drew them here from Michigan other than perhaps warmer weather but they plan to stay. Next to us is a family with 2 children. They eat out every night for dinner and breakfast in the morning. They have a storage compartment that is attached to the back of their rig where they keep the kids’ bikes and other toys. It is an interesting life style. I haven’t quite got a grasp on the attraction of living in a RV park in a half-a-million dollar rig when one could have a lovely permanent home for a lot less than that amount of money. The people behind us are not yet retired but they have a 44ft bus style RV in which they plan to retire in. Actually, I would love for someone to invite me into their big bus so I could see for myself what they are like inside. I just might like it!
It is a long drive from Lafayette, Louisiana to San Antonio, Texas. We made it in about six hours. The land is flat and this time of year the grass is brown. Scrub trees, live oaks and sugar cane grow throughout this area. We did not plan to stop in Houston so we drove right through rather easily, I might add, as the traffic was light at that time of day. On to San Antonio where we are camping out at the Admiralty RV park. It is about 20 minutes outside of the city. The outskirts of the city are not attractive. There is tremendous construction all around the city. New homes and condos are popping up all over the place. The RV park is very nice but almost everyone has a mega bus-style RV. The sites are very close together. One interesting thing we have noticed is the quietness of the parks. People tend to stay in their own “homes” and not hang out outside very much. We did notice mosquitoes here so after our cookout we didn’t stay outside much longer either.
We did manage to talk to a few people and learned that at this particular site many of the people live here permanently. I spoke with a woman walking her dog. It seems she and her husband have been here for 5 years. I am not sure what drew them here from Michigan other than perhaps warmer weather but they plan to stay. Next to us is a family with 2 children. They eat out every night for dinner and breakfast in the morning. They have a storage compartment that is attached to the back of their rig where they keep the kids’ bikes and other toys. It is an interesting life style. I haven’t quite got a grasp on the attraction of living in a RV park in a half-a-million dollar rig when one could have a lovely permanent home for a lot less than that amount of money. The people behind us are not yet retired but they have a 44ft bus style RV in which they plan to retire in. Actually, I would love for someone to invite me into their big bus so I could see for myself what they are like inside. I just might like it!
Thursday, November 16, 2017
A Bit of a Problem:
November 16th
The first problem we noticed was a slight smell of gas when turned on the hot water. This is not something to ignore. The second problem was moisture on the floor of the RV next to the kitchen sink area. We looked up a Camping World RV Service Center and found one in Lafayette, LA. We called and drove from Natchez to Lafayette, about 21/2 hours. We arrived around 11:00 and they worked on the car until 4:00. The service people were very nice to us giving us a ride to the nearest Chili’s so we could have lunch. It was close enough so we could walk back. Jack also made himself at home in one of the salesman’s office while we went to lunch. Jack had befriended everyone in the office. He is clearly settling into RV life of making friends everywhere.
The service center fixed the gas leak problem. It was a two way regulator that had clogged. They had difficulty finding the cause of the water on the floor. They sealed all around the refrigerator. We hope that will solve the problem. It would be a pain to have to go to another service center in Texas.
We found an RV park about 10 miles out of Lafayette in Duson, LA. We will leave early in the morning and try to get as close to San Antonia as possible. It is a long drive but we will see how far we get.
All in all the day was a long waiting around in the service center. I finished a book I was reading.
The first problem we noticed was a slight smell of gas when turned on the hot water. This is not something to ignore. The second problem was moisture on the floor of the RV next to the kitchen sink area. We looked up a Camping World RV Service Center and found one in Lafayette, LA. We called and drove from Natchez to Lafayette, about 21/2 hours. We arrived around 11:00 and they worked on the car until 4:00. The service people were very nice to us giving us a ride to the nearest Chili’s so we could have lunch. It was close enough so we could walk back. Jack also made himself at home in one of the salesman’s office while we went to lunch. Jack had befriended everyone in the office. He is clearly settling into RV life of making friends everywhere.
The service center fixed the gas leak problem. It was a two way regulator that had clogged. They had difficulty finding the cause of the water on the floor. They sealed all around the refrigerator. We hope that will solve the problem. It would be a pain to have to go to another service center in Texas.
We found an RV park about 10 miles out of Lafayette in Duson, LA. We will leave early in the morning and try to get as close to San Antonia as possible. It is a long drive but we will see how far we get.
All in all the day was a long waiting around in the service center. I finished a book I was reading.
Wednesday, November 15, 2017
Natchez, Mississippi
November 15
Antebellum homes are magnificent. We visited 4 today. The mansions were built by wealthy landowners during the mid 1800’s. Many had made their money from owning cotton plantations in Mississippi and Louisiana. Cotton was the crop that was so plentiful in this area that only 30% of the cotton could be sent to the north for production. The other 70% was sent to Europe make fancy garments for the wealthy in England and throughout Europe. Cotton was “king” and became known as “white gold”. Slavery, of course was the reason cotton could be so plentiful. Although the soil was conducive to cotton growing, the slaves made it happen. The money continued to flow into the south and the plantation owners grew exceedingly wealthy building homes to show it off and their social stature. Because of the cash crop that grew here, Natchez became one of the wealthiest cities in America just prior to the war. (Civil War, War Between the States, The War of Northern Agression).
Each home, of course had slave quarters that were located near the “big house”. Each slave had a different chore to do at the home. Some worked in the kitchen, others were house cleaners, still others worked caring for the animals. They were at the beckon call of their owners everyday anytime of day. We have visited plantation homes elsewhere and each time we see the slave quarters it is such a vivid reminder of how poorly the slaves were treated. The photos of beaten slaves that were posted in the slave quarters was to say the least a disturbing reminder of the horrors of the time.
The Mississippi River flows by Natchez giving it a wonderfully pleasant ambience. The word Mississippi means “Father Waters” taken from a Native American language. I grew up in St. Louis, about 4 hours north of here. Watching the barges move freight up and down the river brought back pleasant childhood memories of growing up on the banks of this mighty muddy river.
Mark and I had lunch today in a small restaurant in an area that used to be called Natchez underground. He had a delicious gumbo and fried oysters. I had fried oysters also. I love fried oysters and these were prepared perfectly. Our waitress said her name. It sounded like Liam with a K instead of an L. Then I looked at the spelling of her name: KIM. Some accents are really hard to hear!
In an earlier post I commented on how we are continuously making space in the van a priority for convenience. Mark had bought a very soft dog bed for Jack before we left. Every time we needed something anywhere in the van, we needed to move the bed. Jack did not seem to be using the bed as we drove around so today we gave it to a dog shelter. Jack doesn’t seem bothered and we have significantly more room. Who knows what will be gone tomorrow!
Antebellum homes are magnificent. We visited 4 today. The mansions were built by wealthy landowners during the mid 1800’s. Many had made their money from owning cotton plantations in Mississippi and Louisiana. Cotton was the crop that was so plentiful in this area that only 30% of the cotton could be sent to the north for production. The other 70% was sent to Europe make fancy garments for the wealthy in England and throughout Europe. Cotton was “king” and became known as “white gold”. Slavery, of course was the reason cotton could be so plentiful. Although the soil was conducive to cotton growing, the slaves made it happen. The money continued to flow into the south and the plantation owners grew exceedingly wealthy building homes to show it off and their social stature. Because of the cash crop that grew here, Natchez became one of the wealthiest cities in America just prior to the war. (Civil War, War Between the States, The War of Northern Agression).
Each home, of course had slave quarters that were located near the “big house”. Each slave had a different chore to do at the home. Some worked in the kitchen, others were house cleaners, still others worked caring for the animals. They were at the beckon call of their owners everyday anytime of day. We have visited plantation homes elsewhere and each time we see the slave quarters it is such a vivid reminder of how poorly the slaves were treated. The photos of beaten slaves that were posted in the slave quarters was to say the least a disturbing reminder of the horrors of the time.
The Mississippi River flows by Natchez giving it a wonderfully pleasant ambience. The word Mississippi means “Father Waters” taken from a Native American language. I grew up in St. Louis, about 4 hours north of here. Watching the barges move freight up and down the river brought back pleasant childhood memories of growing up on the banks of this mighty muddy river.
Mark and I had lunch today in a small restaurant in an area that used to be called Natchez underground. He had a delicious gumbo and fried oysters. I had fried oysters also. I love fried oysters and these were prepared perfectly. Our waitress said her name. It sounded like Liam with a K instead of an L. Then I looked at the spelling of her name: KIM. Some accents are really hard to hear!
In an earlier post I commented on how we are continuously making space in the van a priority for convenience. Mark had bought a very soft dog bed for Jack before we left. Every time we needed something anywhere in the van, we needed to move the bed. Jack did not seem to be using the bed as we drove around so today we gave it to a dog shelter. Jack doesn’t seem bothered and we have significantly more room. Who knows what will be gone tomorrow!
Tuesday, November 14, 2017
Germs
A footnote on Germs:
It seems I have become a bit OCD about the cleanliness of the RV. Of course, I don’t want us to get sick so every morning after breakfast I wipe down the entire living area with a disinfectant. The living area is tight and there are 3 of us bringing in those deadly germs.
I am reminded of the book Guns, Germs, and Steel. We have no guns, don’t want any germs and we live in a steel box! What a life.
It seems I have become a bit OCD about the cleanliness of the RV. Of course, I don’t want us to get sick so every morning after breakfast I wipe down the entire living area with a disinfectant. The living area is tight and there are 3 of us bringing in those deadly germs.
I am reminded of the book Guns, Germs, and Steel. We have no guns, don’t want any germs and we live in a steel box! What a life.
Vicksburg, Mississippi
November 14th
The Military Park at Vicksburg is an incredible area where the battlefield was carefully marked with monuments commemorating those who fought for the Union. Many of the Union soldiers were from Illinois, Ohio, and Wisconsin. Interesting that Wisconsin had only been a state for 20 years at that time. The Military Park was a beautiful setting to remember the siege that was held here.
Mark had remembered his history a bit differently than what actually happened. He knew that Grant had won the battle, however, he had imagined that it was in some heroic fight that led the Union troops to victory. Actually, the battles lasted for 47 days and with supplies cut off to the Confederate Army, Pemberton’s army was dying of malaria and starvation. Also The Union owes a great deal of gratitude to the black men who fought for the Union. The black soldiers fought heroically and with such determination that 200,000 black soldiers joined the Union Army after the battle at Vicksburg. With his Conferderate Army dying of starvation and dysentery, Pemberton surrendered!
We continued our drive to Natchez on the Natchez Trace and arrived in time to have lunch in town and set up the RV in daylight. We have learned our lesson about daylight setups.
Lunch was a delightful surprise of a spinach salad with fried oysters on top and a spicy hot sauce for dipping. Mark had an oyster PoBo. Both were delicious.
We settled into the Riverview RV park in Vidalia, MS across the Mississippi River from Natchez. We can see Natchez from our camp site. I love looking across the River to see the lights of the city. The manager of the RV Park is named Cappy and his daughter lives in Yarmouth, Maine. Could the world get any smaller. He even offered us a free night to stay here tomorrow because of the Yarmouth connection. First the Elmira connection, then Yarmouth. Wow!!
I have become more used to the space we are living in. I am aware of putting everything we have in its own space. Mainly because it makes it easier for us to find things but there is a constant reminder that we can get along with less. And with less we can appreciate more. Constantly filling up our spaces hinders our ability to see what is already here. Before we left Maine, I bought a collection of canisters that I had neatly packed into the RV. We don’t need them so I gave them away. Food comes in its own packaging and is easily stored that way. We don’t buy a lot of food at a time so we have plenty of room without those damn canisters. I have also given away some pieces of clothing which I found to be just too much. Not needed, not wanted.
Metaphorically, space provides a vast opening in my mind for me to think clearly without all of the interruptions and clutter that occupies a busy mind. There is a sense of calm that is very welcoming.
The Military Park at Vicksburg is an incredible area where the battlefield was carefully marked with monuments commemorating those who fought for the Union. Many of the Union soldiers were from Illinois, Ohio, and Wisconsin. Interesting that Wisconsin had only been a state for 20 years at that time. The Military Park was a beautiful setting to remember the siege that was held here.
Mark had remembered his history a bit differently than what actually happened. He knew that Grant had won the battle, however, he had imagined that it was in some heroic fight that led the Union troops to victory. Actually, the battles lasted for 47 days and with supplies cut off to the Confederate Army, Pemberton’s army was dying of malaria and starvation. Also The Union owes a great deal of gratitude to the black men who fought for the Union. The black soldiers fought heroically and with such determination that 200,000 black soldiers joined the Union Army after the battle at Vicksburg. With his Conferderate Army dying of starvation and dysentery, Pemberton surrendered!
We continued our drive to Natchez on the Natchez Trace and arrived in time to have lunch in town and set up the RV in daylight. We have learned our lesson about daylight setups.
Lunch was a delightful surprise of a spinach salad with fried oysters on top and a spicy hot sauce for dipping. Mark had an oyster PoBo. Both were delicious.
We settled into the Riverview RV park in Vidalia, MS across the Mississippi River from Natchez. We can see Natchez from our camp site. I love looking across the River to see the lights of the city. The manager of the RV Park is named Cappy and his daughter lives in Yarmouth, Maine. Could the world get any smaller. He even offered us a free night to stay here tomorrow because of the Yarmouth connection. First the Elmira connection, then Yarmouth. Wow!!
I have become more used to the space we are living in. I am aware of putting everything we have in its own space. Mainly because it makes it easier for us to find things but there is a constant reminder that we can get along with less. And with less we can appreciate more. Constantly filling up our spaces hinders our ability to see what is already here. Before we left Maine, I bought a collection of canisters that I had neatly packed into the RV. We don’t need them so I gave them away. Food comes in its own packaging and is easily stored that way. We don’t buy a lot of food at a time so we have plenty of room without those damn canisters. I have also given away some pieces of clothing which I found to be just too much. Not needed, not wanted.
Metaphorically, space provides a vast opening in my mind for me to think clearly without all of the interruptions and clutter that occupies a busy mind. There is a sense of calm that is very welcoming.
Monday, November 13, 2017
Natchez Trace To Vicksburg, Mississippi
November 13,
Willie Nelson’s On The Road Again, set the mood for our drive today through the Natchez Trace. The Natchez Trace is a 400 mile road that winds through the countrysides of Tennessee and Mississippi. It was the buffalo trail that the Native Americans followed centuries ago. Today the road meanders through lovely hard wood forests. We stopped to view a few historic sites including Native American mounds that were used for ceremonial and/or burial purposes.
The three hour drive terminated in Vicksburg where we plan to visit the National Park tomorrow. Mark is particularly interested to see where Grant won the battle that took place here.
Willie Nelson’s On The Road Again, set the mood for our drive today through the Natchez Trace. The Natchez Trace is a 400 mile road that winds through the countrysides of Tennessee and Mississippi. It was the buffalo trail that the Native Americans followed centuries ago. Today the road meanders through lovely hard wood forests. We stopped to view a few historic sites including Native American mounds that were used for ceremonial and/or burial purposes.
The three hour drive terminated in Vicksburg where we plan to visit the National Park tomorrow. Mark is particularly interested to see where Grant won the battle that took place here.
Sunday, November 12, 2017
Hot Springs, Arkansas
November 12, 2017
Hot Springs, Arkansas
When I was about 10 my parents took us to Hot Springs Arkansas for a short vacation. I remembered seeing the white bath houses all in a row down the Main Street of the downtown As we drove into town the white bath houses were still there. Main Street was lined with magnolia trees dropping their granade-like seeds this time of year. Mark and I took a bath at the Quapaw Bath House. The water in the area we went was just under a hundred degrees.. The warmest pool was 104. A bit too hot for us. The last time I took a public bath in mineral water was in Bepu, Japan. I remember being told that no clothes were allowed in the Japanese baths. It was embarrassing as I am tall and I felt like the giant in the land of Lilliput. Hot Springs was not like that. Everyone had bathing suits on. It was a very relaxing time. We met a couple from New York. In fact, the man grew up in Elmira, NY, the hometown of Bobbi Gordon. What a coincidence! When we got back to the car, I called Bobbi to let her know. She was going to call her aunt to see if she would remember the name.
I had a good conversation with Mike tonight. He gave us some tips on living in a small van. The one tip that I will remember is take time in between places to notice the small things. He warned against focusing on the next stop and not appreciating what is right in front of us in the moment. He also suggested to be sure to talk to people along the way as everyone has a story and there is much to learn from everyone. Thanks Mike. I will try to take your advice all along the way.
We are in Tupelo, Mississippi tonight. Tomorrow we will begin our drive on the Natchez Trace.
Hot Springs, Arkansas
When I was about 10 my parents took us to Hot Springs Arkansas for a short vacation. I remembered seeing the white bath houses all in a row down the Main Street of the downtown As we drove into town the white bath houses were still there. Main Street was lined with magnolia trees dropping their granade-like seeds this time of year. Mark and I took a bath at the Quapaw Bath House. The water in the area we went was just under a hundred degrees.. The warmest pool was 104. A bit too hot for us. The last time I took a public bath in mineral water was in Bepu, Japan. I remember being told that no clothes were allowed in the Japanese baths. It was embarrassing as I am tall and I felt like the giant in the land of Lilliput. Hot Springs was not like that. Everyone had bathing suits on. It was a very relaxing time. We met a couple from New York. In fact, the man grew up in Elmira, NY, the hometown of Bobbi Gordon. What a coincidence! When we got back to the car, I called Bobbi to let her know. She was going to call her aunt to see if she would remember the name.
I had a good conversation with Mike tonight. He gave us some tips on living in a small van. The one tip that I will remember is take time in between places to notice the small things. He warned against focusing on the next stop and not appreciating what is right in front of us in the moment. He also suggested to be sure to talk to people along the way as everyone has a story and there is much to learn from everyone. Thanks Mike. I will try to take your advice all along the way.
We are in Tupelo, Mississippi tonight. Tomorrow we will begin our drive on the Natchez Trace.
Saturday, November 11, 2017
Little Rock Arkansas: Clinton Library
November 11th Veterans Day
Little Rock is a much smaller city that I imagined. We visited the Clinton Library. It is an impressive building set on a lovely landscaped campus. The Clinton School of Public Service is located next door in an old brick train station. It is set nicely in juxtaposition to the very modern glass Clinton Library. The tour was very interesting and brought back good memories of good political times. We noticed particularly in all the photos of Bill how charismatic he was, smiling and touching people he was speaking to. He was a very engaging president. Whether we agreed with everything that he did as president, he was a gifted politician.
There was a visiting exhibit that I found to be impressive. It was a photo journalistic essay of Nelson Mandela. It was a view of his birth place, family and time as a leader South Africa leading his people against the horrors of Apartheid. His words are very important today as we are living in difficult political times.
Some of his words that were particularly poignant:
“The lack of human dignity experienced by Africans is the direct result of the the policy of white supremacy. White supremacy implies black inferiority. Legislation designed to preserve white supremacy entrenches this notion.”
“If we don’t forgive them (former captors) then that feeling of bitterness and revenge will be there forever and we are saying, ‘Let us forget the past, Let’s concern ourselves with the present and the future’ but to say the atrocities of the past will never be allowed to happen again.”
The friendship that existed between President Clinton and Nelson Mandela was real and an important one that set a model of respect and leadership between these two world leaders.
One final exhibit posed two questions that I believe will set the focus for some reflections on this journey west: What will you forgive? What will you fight for? Perhaps I will answer these in some measured way in future posts. We are striving for Ubuntu!
Little Rock is a much smaller city that I imagined. We visited the Clinton Library. It is an impressive building set on a lovely landscaped campus. The Clinton School of Public Service is located next door in an old brick train station. It is set nicely in juxtaposition to the very modern glass Clinton Library. The tour was very interesting and brought back good memories of good political times. We noticed particularly in all the photos of Bill how charismatic he was, smiling and touching people he was speaking to. He was a very engaging president. Whether we agreed with everything that he did as president, he was a gifted politician.
There was a visiting exhibit that I found to be impressive. It was a photo journalistic essay of Nelson Mandela. It was a view of his birth place, family and time as a leader South Africa leading his people against the horrors of Apartheid. His words are very important today as we are living in difficult political times.
Some of his words that were particularly poignant:
“The lack of human dignity experienced by Africans is the direct result of the the policy of white supremacy. White supremacy implies black inferiority. Legislation designed to preserve white supremacy entrenches this notion.”
“If we don’t forgive them (former captors) then that feeling of bitterness and revenge will be there forever and we are saying, ‘Let us forget the past, Let’s concern ourselves with the present and the future’ but to say the atrocities of the past will never be allowed to happen again.”
The friendship that existed between President Clinton and Nelson Mandela was real and an important one that set a model of respect and leadership between these two world leaders.
One final exhibit posed two questions that I believe will set the focus for some reflections on this journey west: What will you forgive? What will you fight for? Perhaps I will answer these in some measured way in future posts. We are striving for Ubuntu!
Memphis, TN: Graceland and Beale Street Blues
November 10, 2017
We drove to Memphis, TN in about 3 hours. It was an easy drive but a bit longer than we expected.
The tour through Graceland was all that one would expect. It was an extravagancza of Elvis everywhere. His home was decorated as it would have been in the 70’s. Green shag rug, blue curtains, gold and white flamboyant decorations. Elvis was singing in every room with family photos all around. The home was actually a lovely country home with horses in the back. Except for the decorations, the home could be a beautiful southern estate. The house was being decorated with Christmas decorations. All BLUE, a tribute to his song, I am sure.
The best part of our Memphis visit was the evening walk on Beale Street and listening to Blues Music. I had Red Beans and Rice at the Rum Boogie Cafe. Mark had Gator Gumbo. This was the best Cajun food we have had in a long time. The music was energetic and fun. Personally, I enjoyed the Blues music much better than the Country Music of Nashville. The musicians seemed to be enjoying themselves and sharing their talents personally with the audiences. It was an amazing evening of good food and great music.
We drove to Memphis, TN in about 3 hours. It was an easy drive but a bit longer than we expected.
The tour through Graceland was all that one would expect. It was an extravagancza of Elvis everywhere. His home was decorated as it would have been in the 70’s. Green shag rug, blue curtains, gold and white flamboyant decorations. Elvis was singing in every room with family photos all around. The home was actually a lovely country home with horses in the back. Except for the decorations, the home could be a beautiful southern estate. The house was being decorated with Christmas decorations. All BLUE, a tribute to his song, I am sure.
The best part of our Memphis visit was the evening walk on Beale Street and listening to Blues Music. I had Red Beans and Rice at the Rum Boogie Cafe. Mark had Gator Gumbo. This was the best Cajun food we have had in a long time. The music was energetic and fun. Personally, I enjoyed the Blues music much better than the Country Music of Nashville. The musicians seemed to be enjoying themselves and sharing their talents personally with the audiences. It was an amazing evening of good food and great music.
Thursday, November 9, 2017
Reflections: Week One
Before we started out on our tour of America, there were several things we had in mind. Mark wanted to see the south west, the National Parks in particular. He wanted to see some of the south’s Civil War monuments, Vicksburg in particular. He also wanted time to be off the grid and less time focusing on news. I wanted to see America slowly and observe the people and places that we would see with a thoughtful eye. We have traveled together and have seen many places over the years but each trip was limited by time. This trip will be a six month journey through America. We will try to stay warm by traveling mostly through the south heading west then north through California, onto Oregon and Washington then returning to Maine through the northern states in the spring.
Our first week was a learning experience in living in a very small space. We had to figure out how to pack the van so that we could find everything we needed without opening up every cabinet. I have one and a half cabinet for my clothes. Mark has the same. The kitchen area has room for a couple of pots, 2 dishes and 2 cups, a drawer for silverware, a refrigerator and a small stove and sink. We have managed to set up the van to our convenience and so far no major issues. (A few discussions on where we put things but generally not a big deal)
Although we have been traveling for only a week, we have managed to move around the small space quite well. Just to note that every time we need to do anything, we need to move several things around. For example, we keep our outside chairs in the rear end of the van, so when we are going to bed we need to move those chairs to the front of the van so we can turn the couch/bed into a bed for the evening. We store some food items in the microwave, so every time we use the microwave, we need to take everything out and place it in the sink. In other words, using two things at once is a bit tricky. I am trying to make things more accessible but haven’t been that successful yet. We need to put things away tightly into the cabinets when we drive or things will bang around and may fall out when we open the cabinet. (Forget “may” they fall out)
We have driven through some of the most beautiful landscapes throughout the south so far. West Virginia is an extraordinarily beautiful state. The hardwood forests were particularly colorful this time of year, shades of gold and rust against a grey sky. We listened to John Denver’s song about West Virginia as we drove. “Almost heaven, West Virginia. Blue ridge mountains, Shenandoah river. Life is old there, older than the trees. Younger than the mountains, blowing like a breeze”.
Kentucky was also lovely with rolling green hills and elegant horse farms with black fences that went for miles. The horses were sleek and shiny. We were told that the land does not have iron in it so it is perfect for horse farming and distilling bourbon. What a great state!
The people we have talked to at the various parks have been very friendly. A few interesting notes we have discovered is that there is a group of people who live in their RV’s who are retired but continue to work either as part timers in stores or at the parks for extra money. RV’s are also very quiet. The park’s have a quiet time usually around 10:00pm. However, things are quiet long before then. This is actually very nice. We were not looking to party. This is a different atmosphere than what we experienced when we were living at Sunday River at the ski condo. It was definitely a party place.
All in all, a great first week of travel.
Our first week was a learning experience in living in a very small space. We had to figure out how to pack the van so that we could find everything we needed without opening up every cabinet. I have one and a half cabinet for my clothes. Mark has the same. The kitchen area has room for a couple of pots, 2 dishes and 2 cups, a drawer for silverware, a refrigerator and a small stove and sink. We have managed to set up the van to our convenience and so far no major issues. (A few discussions on where we put things but generally not a big deal)
Although we have been traveling for only a week, we have managed to move around the small space quite well. Just to note that every time we need to do anything, we need to move several things around. For example, we keep our outside chairs in the rear end of the van, so when we are going to bed we need to move those chairs to the front of the van so we can turn the couch/bed into a bed for the evening. We store some food items in the microwave, so every time we use the microwave, we need to take everything out and place it in the sink. In other words, using two things at once is a bit tricky. I am trying to make things more accessible but haven’t been that successful yet. We need to put things away tightly into the cabinets when we drive or things will bang around and may fall out when we open the cabinet. (Forget “may” they fall out)
We have driven through some of the most beautiful landscapes throughout the south so far. West Virginia is an extraordinarily beautiful state. The hardwood forests were particularly colorful this time of year, shades of gold and rust against a grey sky. We listened to John Denver’s song about West Virginia as we drove. “Almost heaven, West Virginia. Blue ridge mountains, Shenandoah river. Life is old there, older than the trees. Younger than the mountains, blowing like a breeze”.
Kentucky was also lovely with rolling green hills and elegant horse farms with black fences that went for miles. The horses were sleek and shiny. We were told that the land does not have iron in it so it is perfect for horse farming and distilling bourbon. What a great state!
The people we have talked to at the various parks have been very friendly. A few interesting notes we have discovered is that there is a group of people who live in their RV’s who are retired but continue to work either as part timers in stores or at the parks for extra money. RV’s are also very quiet. The park’s have a quiet time usually around 10:00pm. However, things are quiet long before then. This is actually very nice. We were not looking to party. This is a different atmosphere than what we experienced when we were living at Sunday River at the ski condo. It was definitely a party place.
All in all, a great first week of travel.
Nashville, Tennessee
We spent the day in downtown Nashville, the country music city! We walked around the entire city and listened to music at many of the bars and restaurants. We probably walked 5 miles from 10:00 in the morning to 4:00 in the afternoon. The day was sunny and warm so the walk was truly enjoyable.
Second Street and Broadway were the hotspots for music. It reminded me a bit of New Orleans but the music was totally different. Country all day all the time.
The pulled pork we had for lunch was delicious. Live music by a trio was pretty good. I am not particularly a fan of country music but we enjoyed this group. (Didn’t get their name)
Nashville is an interesting city in that it is going through a renovation. There seems to be a renewed interest in moving to the city from the country. The countryside is lovely but the farms are not want the young people want anymore, according to some people we spoke to. New construction is going on all over the place, mostly new condos and high rise buildings.
Overall, Nashville is a fun city for those who love Country Music. It seems to be a young persons city. There are a couple of colleges here which keeps the city population young and energized.
Second Street and Broadway were the hotspots for music. It reminded me a bit of New Orleans but the music was totally different. Country all day all the time.
The pulled pork we had for lunch was delicious. Live music by a trio was pretty good. I am not particularly a fan of country music but we enjoyed this group. (Didn’t get their name)
Nashville is an interesting city in that it is going through a renovation. There seems to be a renewed interest in moving to the city from the country. The countryside is lovely but the farms are not want the young people want anymore, according to some people we spoke to. New construction is going on all over the place, mostly new condos and high rise buildings.
Overall, Nashville is a fun city for those who love Country Music. It seems to be a young persons city. There are a couple of colleges here which keeps the city population young and energized.
Wednesday, November 8, 2017
November 8th Mammoth Cave
Mammoth Cave:
Mammoth Cave is a gigantic limestone formation in the south west section of Kentucky. We spent last night at a lovely park in Cave City, KY.
We decided to take the tour of a portion of the cave. Mammoth Cave covers about 400 miles of underground paths. We took a 2 hour tour walking about 2 miles. We decended 350 feet into the dark, dank cave. Although our path was dimly lit throughout, we needed to be careful where we stepped because the pathway was narrow and dark. One area was so narrow most people needed to pass through sideways. There were many areas that we had to squeeze through and duck our heads to avoid overhead rock. There was a moment when the guide turned out her light and the darkness was unbelievable, a bit scary! With the minimal light throughout the tour, Mark and I both felt a sense of vertigo. We felt a periodic sense of dizziness. Since we had decended 350 feet into the cave we needed to climb back up to get out. There was a straight up slippery staircase with over 500 steps to the top. It was like walking up an elevator shaft. All in all the tour was interesting from a geological and historical point of view however, I needed to pay attention to where I was walking so I couldn’t really hear the guide. She would stop periodically and give the history of the Native Americans, miners, and others who had left their mark in the cave.
Simply, cave touring is not for me. I did not think I had clostrophobia until today. There was definitely a sense of being closed in. I was glad to get out and see the sunshine. Fear concurred!!
Tuesday, November 7, 2017
Lexington, Kentucky: Woodford Reserve
November 6, 2017
We visited the Woodford Reserve Bourbon Distillery. We took the tour and tasting. My favorite was the double barreled bourbon! I love Manhattans and can’t wait to have one when we get home.
The best bourbon comes from Kentucky because there is no iron in the water here. It is also best for the horses!
The Space Between Us Or Lack Thereof
Living in a small space is to say the least cramped! The RV we have is a Pleasure Way. It is 22 feet long on the outside. On the inside it feels like 2 feet. It does have all the conveniences that we need but only one person can move around at a time. One of sits the other stands. We seem to have enough room for all of the clothes that we brought along. It is amazing how much can fit into a tiny cabinet.
The evening and morning routines are not quite automatic, but here is a quick description of the way it has worked the past couple of days.
To prepare the bed we need to move everything that we have stored on the couch/bed to the front seats of the van. Then we push a button that reclines the couch and turns it into a queen size bed. We take the sleeping bags out of the stuff sacks and hop in. Jack has found a comfy spot between us.
In the morning one of will get up first and make the coffee. The Kurig pot needs to be set up and filled with water and a coffee pod. We have new Yeti cups that are really wonderful. They keep the coffee warm for a long time. There is nothing like a good cup of coffee to ward off the cold and the grouchies.
We have to tidy everything up after we do anything or we won’t be able to find anything. We misplaced many things already. Mark is always saying “Where did you put...?” But I here that at home all the time as well, so nothing is new there. It is a constant battle on where to put something so that it will be easy to find when we need it next. Changing places is not a good idea.
The evening and morning routines are not quite automatic, but here is a quick description of the way it has worked the past couple of days.
To prepare the bed we need to move everything that we have stored on the couch/bed to the front seats of the van. Then we push a button that reclines the couch and turns it into a queen size bed. We take the sleeping bags out of the stuff sacks and hop in. Jack has found a comfy spot between us.
In the morning one of will get up first and make the coffee. The Kurig pot needs to be set up and filled with water and a coffee pod. We have new Yeti cups that are really wonderful. They keep the coffee warm for a long time. There is nothing like a good cup of coffee to ward off the cold and the grouchies.
We have to tidy everything up after we do anything or we won’t be able to find anything. We misplaced many things already. Mark is always saying “Where did you put...?” But I here that at home all the time as well, so nothing is new there. It is a constant battle on where to put something so that it will be easy to find when we need it next. Changing places is not a good idea.
Monday, November 6, 2017
First Night Camping
Georgetown, KY
We left Perryopolis having an unsuccessful attempt at selling my books then drove for five hours to Georgetown, KY just outside of Lexington. This is the first RV camp site that is open year round so we decided to stay for two nights.
We camped last night for the first time and of course, we did everything that we said we wouldn’t do. We arrived in the dark with no food for dinner. Just as we were nearing the camp site and trying to listen to the GPS for directions, the rear view mirror falls off the window. It is hanging by a small wire so I needed to hold it in place so Mark can see behind us. He wasn’t too happy about that. Mark set up the electrical current to the camper wrong so he set off all the alarms. Fortunately, someone from the parrk was able to help us out.
Prior to getting to the camp we went to Walmart for dinner and breakfast supplies. Had to make a rush visit in our attempt to get to the camp site before dark. We didn’t make it ! Ended up have a salad for dinner.
There was a horrific wind and rain storm all night long. Winds were up to 50mph. I thought for sure the camper would be struck by lightning or blown over. We forgot to close the fan in the top of the van so we had water on the floor when we got up. We are learning fast how to adjust to camper van living.
The weather turned cold in the morning. Grey skies and a little more rain. There is nothing like a good cup of coffee in the morning to ward off the cold and the grouchies. We spent about two hours at the Chevy Service getting the mirror fixed. We think we have everything in order now. Well, maybe!
The Kentucky countryside is beautiful. Rolling green hills and horse farms go on forever.
We left Perryopolis having an unsuccessful attempt at selling my books then drove for five hours to Georgetown, KY just outside of Lexington. This is the first RV camp site that is open year round so we decided to stay for two nights.
We camped last night for the first time and of course, we did everything that we said we wouldn’t do. We arrived in the dark with no food for dinner. Just as we were nearing the camp site and trying to listen to the GPS for directions, the rear view mirror falls off the window. It is hanging by a small wire so I needed to hold it in place so Mark can see behind us. He wasn’t too happy about that. Mark set up the electrical current to the camper wrong so he set off all the alarms. Fortunately, someone from the parrk was able to help us out.
Prior to getting to the camp we went to Walmart for dinner and breakfast supplies. Had to make a rush visit in our attempt to get to the camp site before dark. We didn’t make it ! Ended up have a salad for dinner.
There was a horrific wind and rain storm all night long. Winds were up to 50mph. I thought for sure the camper would be struck by lightning or blown over. We forgot to close the fan in the top of the van so we had water on the floor when we got up. We are learning fast how to adjust to camper van living.
The weather turned cold in the morning. Grey skies and a little more rain. There is nothing like a good cup of coffee in the morning to ward off the cold and the grouchies. We spent about two hours at the Chevy Service getting the mirror fixed. We think we have everything in order now. Well, maybe!
The Kentucky countryside is beautiful. Rolling green hills and horse farms go on forever.
Perryopolis and Star Junction
My mother would have been 100 years old this October so it was interesting to visit the town of her birth almost exactly one hundred yeas later. The Church and home has definitely changed over the 100 years but the town is certainly a reflection of coal mining and its heritage.
I spent some time at a flea market sitting at a table attempting to sell my books. Not much luck in that area. However, there were a few people who were interested in telling me that their relatives were coal miners and had worked in the mines years ago. It is a sad, deprived area of Pennsylvania. I realize how much my grandfather wanted to leave the town and get out of mining.
The Beginning: November 2017
WINTER ADVENTURE
THE BEGINNING
After a day delay, we started off on our RV journey through America on Thursday November 2, 2017. We spent our first night at Agnes’ house. We were lucky to see her gorgeous new bathrooms and wood flooring throughout the house. We had dinner at Mission Oak with our final Manhattan to celebrate the beginning of the trip.
The drive through the country side of Pennsylvania was beautiful. The gold trees were spectacular against the grey sky and deep green grass. The rolling hills were a welcoming landscape for the fall scenery inviting a landscape painting. We listened to the music of Mary Black, Irish folk music. Her song about coal mining and Ellis Island set the mood for tomorrow: visiting my mom’s birth place, the coal patch town, Star Junction
We are spending the night in Perryopolis, PA and plan to see Star Junction tomorrow. My mother was born in Star Junction and that is the inspirational setting for my book, THE WEIGHT OF COAL AND LACE. I hope to sell a few books tomorrow. Although it will be Sunday, I am not sure exactly where to hang out, a local church or lunch cafe, perhaps.
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